Thread: Split CV Boots

Ive used them on non rover things before,

the ones with the maze sea lip that you glue together with sealastic and run a zip tie through at either end on the shaft and CV Ive had no issue with.

Driveshaft CV Split Boot Kit NOK | Turner Driveshafts & Steering Specialists, 4x4, Suspension, Radiators, Powering Steering Pumps, Power Steering Racks, Control Arms & More
CRP 1103570391, 1103570391EC CV Joint Boot; Rear; Split Type - Mercedes | A1103570391
Driveshaft CV Split Boot Kit NOK | Turner Driveshafts & Steering Specialists, 4x4, Suspension, Radiators, Powering Steering Pumps, Power Steering Racks, Control Arms & More

theres some links for ya, should get something close...

heres the style you dont want.

Just a moment...

BOL

Thanks Dave - very helpful

I had a split boot earlier in the year,got a good used shaft from a wrecker for $70 and took less than an hour to change over.
Will get a boot kit and fix my original shaft ready to swap over if required.

Just to follow up on this thread. As mentioned I have had a split front inner boot for a long time - indeed about 80,000km - having previously owned a 70s Subaru I know all about preserving split boots with glad wrap and cable ties.

It was time to change the boot and I subsequently found the front left outer had also split - pulling the shaft out would be the option but last year I a major health issue that has left me weak and bit frail - I would have to pay someone but i am too tight .

So question about fitting split boots. I have now fitted both and covered about 2000km with no real issue though fitting required some ingenuity.

I went with Dave's suggestion and got these from Turners Driveshaft CV Split Boot Kit NOK | Turner Driveshafts & Steering Specialists, 4x4, Suspension, Radiators, Powering Steering Pumps, Power Steering Racks, Control Arms & More
Split Boot.jpg

They are a silicon boot and worked well. The problem is that the sizes are not linked to car models and the seller looks dimensions for the car up and matches to a boot model.

The inner boot does not come with the little dimples moulded into the boot - so you have to cut them out of the removed boot. The issue here is that the new boot is matched to the actual diameter of the CV not the diameter of the CV plus the extra ring from the dimples - a bit hard to explain. Now super glue sticks to rubber and steel but not silicon so I was able to stick the dimples to the CV with super glue to hold all in place until all clamped down. At the small end of the CV boot the spacer was right. The welding of the split boot to make it grease tight worked as advertised.

The outer boot was more problematic. Again welded together no issue but the large diameter end needed the provided spacer but it was too short so there was about a 2cm gap where grease could get out - I cut a 2cm piece of rubber out of the old boot and filled the gap gluing it in with superglue to hold it until I clamped it all down. On the small end of the CV boot the spacer was just too think and would not fit between the shaft and boot. I again cut out a piece from the the old rubber boot and glued it to the shaft and fitted the new boot over it and clamped it down.

So except for a few mods - it has all worked well.

Also remember super glue does work well on rubber parts.

Sorry - clear as mud but they do work as advertised - just think about what you need before doing the job.

Garry