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Thread: Rear wiper no power

  1. #1
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    Rear wiper no power

    My rear wiper has stopped working. The Gap tool reported:

    B1C77-14 (2F) Rear wiper relay coil circuit - General electrical failure - circuit short to ground or open

    I checked the fuses and found the engine bay F16 was blown, so I replaced it and cleared the fault.

    Now no fault but the rear wiper does not activate (no sounds, no movement). The rear washer works ok.

    I removed the wiper assembly and confirmed the rod has not seized and gears look good.

    So my next step is replacing the relay before the motor. But where would I find that relay? The manual lists all fuses but not the relays.

    I found a post about the relay being somewhere near the tow bar - but have looked around and can't find it.

  2. #2
    BradC is offline Super Moderator
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    If you have a D3 then it's Relay R273 (Connector C2397) in the passenger rear compartment near the trailer fuses. It also supplies power to the Ignition power outlet on the white trailer socket. Engine bay fuse 16 is a main supply to the CJB. The other side of the relay is driven straight from the CJB.

    If you don't have a D3 then this is all irrelevant.

    Edit : Checked the D4 diagram. The location is correct but it looks like a double relay (wiper and power are separate contacts & coils). On the D4 F16 is the direct supply to the rear wiper relay in the rear passenger compartment. So same same but different. Connector highlighted on D4 diagram below.
    Screenshot_2024-01-04_13-40-08.jpg
    MY08 D3 - The Antichrist - "Permagrimace". Turn the key and play the "will it get me home again" lottery.

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    TonyC is offline Wizard Silver Subscriber
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    Our Subaru Outback has broken, for the second time, the wire to the rear wiper.
    It breaks were it bends every time you open the tailgate.

    That said, I would have thought a D4 would be clever enough to tell it was open circuit.

    Tony

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    Legend - thanks BradC! I did not know there was another fuse box there. Mine is a D4 so thanks for checking. I'll go take a look tomorrow.

    TonyC that sounds like a questionable design choice. The D4 has many of those
    Nuggets

    Discovery 4 3.0L 2010

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    BradC is offline Super Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by Disco4TT3 View Post
    I did not know there was another fuse box there. Mine is a D4
    I don't believe there is a fuse box there on the D4, but the connector diagram still locates the relays in that location on the D4 for both the wiper and trailer ignition pin. Given it's location on the drawing, you might be looking right down the back corner at or below floor level. Just follow the harness.

    Last time I went away I lost my caravan camera feed. Turns out stuff I stashed in the compartment gave the harness a tug and it became disconnected. Anything is possible.
    MY08 D3 - The Antichrist - "Permagrimace". Turn the key and play the "will it get me home again" lottery.

  6. #6
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    I found my multimeter , did some testing and I'm getting power to the assembly. So Im assuming the relays, fuses and wiring harness are all good.

    Since the next easy but expensive step is replacing the wiper assembly, I decided to pull it apart and see what's what:

    IMG_0075.jpg IMG_0076.jpg

    Removed the motor:

    IMG_0077.jpg

    and although there seems to be some wear on the inside:

    IMG_0079.jpg

    When I connected to a 12v battery, the motor worked fine.

    I checked the brass connectors behind the main cog and found some grease covering one of the connectors. But sadly, wiping it off didn't help.

    With the wipers 'on', I can see 12v coming from the harness to the assembly but only 0.3v coming from the assembly to the motor:

    IMG_0081.jpg

    So digging deeper, I see this little sucker:

    IMG_0082.jpg

    The connections are all good, so suspecting this component might be the issue. Stretching my non-existent electronics skills here, but think that might be a capacitor? Anyone know?

    I've resigned myself to replacing the assembly, but keen to try and repair for the hell of it!
    Nuggets

    Discovery 4 3.0L 2010

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    BradC is offline Super Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by Disco4TT3 View Post
    Stretching my non-existent electronics skills here, but think that might be a capacitor? Anyone know?
    Yep, and you're spot on. That cap will be for arc suppression on the motor. If it was open, the motor would still work and if it was shorted it'd go off like a fire cracker when you put 12V on it, so I'm suspecting the fault lies elsewhere.

    Given your first indicator of the fault was a blown fuse, I suspect "something bad" happened to cause the fault, because fuses don't get old, tired and blow for no reason.

    Diagnostics have been great thus far, keep on probing.
    MY08 D3 - The Antichrist - "Permagrimace". Turn the key and play the "will it get me home again" lottery.

  8. #8
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    So it's fixed - but unfortunately I'm not sure what fixed it!?

    I cleaned the contacts behind the main cog again but with an alcohol swab this time, reassembled and the motor ran. But don't think this could've caused the initial short which made the fuse blow.

    One gotcha I found while reassembling, make sure you mark the position of the cog and the internal ratcheted metal arm before you remove. When I first put the external wiper arm back on, it went backwards!

    I rotated the cog 180 and it still didn't work, then reattached the ratcheted arm to the opposite hole in the cog and that worked. I don't have a pic but anyone rebuilding will see what I mean.

    Happy days. I saved a few hundred bucks (for now).

    Thanks for your help BradC!
    Nuggets

    Discovery 4 3.0L 2010

  9. #9
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    Rear wiper no power

    I have been playing with an electric passenger window on an 80 series LC that just stops working always in the fully up position. After stripping everything to bits on a few occasions to fault find the electrics the motor as a separated item works perfectly forward and reverse. Ultimately I’m sure that in the fully up position the teeth on the motor and arm mechanism bind in one perfect spot due to a bit of wear and tear.

    Sounds like something similar is happening here. The electrics are so good on most cars and those small electric motors seem bullet proof so a mechanical gremlin or breakage seems to always be the culprit.

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