Thread: Leak in EGR system - how to seal?

Originally Posted by shack

That is an EXTREMELY cheap MAP sensor.

Yes, that is what I figured now after checking it again… on different websites this is listed with double the price, though…
Anyway, I am happy to swap with genuine this time, for sure!

Originally Posted by mtthsk

The sensor was not genuine, but new. It is this one:https://www.ebay.de/itm/324816890036...mis&media=COPY

I will pull the sensor from the throttle body and check its value. And I will also install the old, genuine one and read its value with only ignition on (if it still shows a value, i dont know).

If both still show way below 100kPa, I will check the wiring for any damage and/or install a new, genuine sensor, as this would indicate to me that something is definitely wrong with the sensor.

I actually inspected the ECU behind the battery when installing a new boost pressure sensor with its hose. To get more room I removed the battery and could ser the ECU. It was bone-dry in there with a little bit of dust which I cleaned. (My battery sits in the RH side, as my car is LH-drive)

Thanks for your continued support!

Cheers,
Matt

It might still pay to remove the ECU connector just to be 100% sure there’s no corrosion. I doubt there is - it’s normally the trans ecu that corrodes.

I’m clutching at straws about the baro/map value and even if it’s a thing.

Mine with ignition off

Hi there,
I believe the new, cheap MAP sensor may well have caused all the trouble I have had for the last 4 weeks...

Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

Mine with ignition off

Thanks DiscoJeffster for posting your values, that confirms how it should look like.

Remember how the cheap MAP sensor read:

Originally Posted by mtthsk

I just did a ignition on test with a couple of related values:
Attachment 188868

There was a 25kPa difference between atmospheric and MAP reading.

I have first pulled the cheap MAP sensor from the throttle body and re-read the value. It still showed 75kPa.

Then I disconnected the sensor altogether, resulting in these values:
sensor disconnected.jpg
It just reads very low voltage resulting in a very low MAP, of course.

I then plugged in the old, genuine MAP sensor and also fitted it to its throttle body position. The values I got are shown here:
old genuine sensor.jpg
Now, thats a lot closer! This just shows to me 100% that you guys were right with the sensor being faulty.

I proceeded with a stationary test with revving the engine up to above 3000 rpms. Normally, with the cheap MAP sensor, the fault would occur here after about 5 seconds in these conditions max. It did not occur with the old genuine sensor, even when keeping the revs for a longer time.

Later that day I took the car for a drive and manually shifted down a couple of gears to be above 3000 rpms again. Again, the fault would not trigger!

Today I will take the car for a harder testdrive on the autobahn and see if the fault is really gone.

Originally Posted by mtthsk

It seems weird to me, though, as the MAP sensor was the first thing I replaced, because the car wouldn't even keep running for 1 second after starting. After swapping it out, everything seemed to be normal until i noticed the reduced performance when hitting above 2500 rpms for the first time a couple of days later.

Originally Posted by shack

I'm also surprised it won't run without the MAP sensor, I would imagine most of the fuelling is handled by the MAF's.

I still totally do not get it, why the sensor had problems at the beginning, the car wouldn't keep running and swapping the sensor magically fixed it (to some degree).
I cleaned the original sensor and refitted it of course, with no success. Changing the genuine with the new cheap sensor was basically everything I have changed before the car ran again. The cleaning of the CSOV, throttle body, putting the throttle body flap back into place etc. all came after swapping the MAP sensor where the car had already run again.
I absolutely don't know what else caused the problems in the first place, but this didn't happen again.

Luckily I didn't throw away the genuine sensor, even though I thought it just had it.

Anyway, I want to thank you all for guiding and helping me narrowing down the problem! Your help and input is invaluable. I didn't see the the obvious difference in the readings and would have not suspected the new MAP sensor.

I will report back after my test drive today.
If the problem does not occur, I will probably leave the old sensor installed, still buy a new, genuine one and carry it in the car.

Cheers,
Matt

Nice work buddy and nice work Shack diagnosing that discrepancy

Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

Nice work buddy and nice work Shack diagnosing that discrepancy

Cheers..

I'll save final comments after we get some more definite results!

But yeah, hopefully on the right track.

You guys are amazing!
the diagnostics in this thread are impressive.
best wishes, Jeffoir

Hi there,

this afternoon I took the car for a good ride, driving it way more aggressive than I usually would. After warming it up for a bit, I went on the autobahn and directly when accelerating onto it the car pulled again like I used to know. I drove 160, 170 kph for 5 minutes continiously and everything felt really good. Also when overtaking I really put my foot down to also trigger the CSOV opening and the second air intake path. I logged the values and everything really looked as you would expect it.

It felt really good to drive the car without hesitation that it would go into fault when accelerating too fast. It is quite stupid that I had the old sensor still in the car the whole time and probably could have fixed it way sooner.

Still I don't know why the first problems appeared and what fixed them in the end.

However, I am very happy to have that car back to normal! I really like to debug this kind of stuff and do the repairs myself, but this really put some strain on me. Not being able to find the root of this much discussed problem with so many possible solutions. In the end it seems as though it was exactly what the fault code said: a general electrical failure of the MAP circuit, with its main part being faulty. I learn from this to not even exclude freshly swapped out parts from the diagnostics and to be rather sceptical at such low price parts.

And I learned lots about the car while trying to fix it, which I really love!

Anyway, I am so grateful for the help of all of you, love the community! If you wouldn't have helped me, I believe I woud have swapped the vacuum hoses next and after another disappointment would have brought it to a local Land Rover specialist. Maybe they would have found the problem, but reading all the stories that the workshops just swap the whole turbo rather than really diagnose the problem, make me more grateful that I dont need to book an appointment in the garage and spend thousands on parts that are still good...

For now, the old sensor seems to hold up, but as I cleaned it rather drastically I don't really trust it that much, so I still ordered a new, genuine one from the UK that is due to arrive in two or three weeks. If the old sensor fails, I can still install the cheap one and drive carefully without too much load

Of course if the problem comes back in any way I will report back here!

Cheers,
Matt