I’m aware that generally lithium doesn’t like being under bonnets, but I’m thinking about replacing my under bonnet SSB dry cell with one of these lithiums. I already have a Projecta IDC25X DCDC’s, and I’ve thought about making an aluminium surround for the aux to give it some heat protection.
No, I’m not moving my battery into the rear of my car!
iTECH54 12v 54Ah Lithium Ion Battery - LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Camping RV S
"Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"
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						I removed my Traxxide aux battery controller in favour of the IDC25X as I’ve been planning a lithium upgrade and adding solar. A good solar controller was going to set me back about the same price as the IDC25X with the benefit of it being an all in one DCDC and solar controller
"Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"
Not sure if you’re aware or not, but lithium needs a constant high charge rate which Traxxide cannot do
"Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"
MY08 TDV6 D3 Zermatt Silver, B.A.S ECU Remap, ARB Bar, 12K Kingone Winch, 2x100Ah LiFePo4 Auxiliary Power, Safari Snorkel, Baja Rack Roof Rack, Brown Davis Aux. Tank, RWC, Front Runner Rear Ladder, Drifta Drawers, Doran TPMS, LLAMS, GAP IID BT.
As an aux battery Tombie, not a starting battery. It’ll be on a Traxxide aux battery mount where the European diesel heater space is.
"Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
Hi John and first off, your Traxide isolator is NOT the limiting factor when trying to charge lithium batteries directly from a D4 alternator.
The D4 comes with a SMART alternator operation and will stop charging a lithium battery and the BMS in a D4 will actually cause the D4 to run its electric off the lithium battery while your are driving.
In D3s and the original defenders, you can charge lithium batteries directly off the alternator through a Traxide isolator.
Next, your idea of an aluminium battery box is far superior to a thermal blanket, because any heat that will get to the battery, particularly on long drives, will keep in battery hot, long after the motor has stopped.
An aluminium box, fitted no closer to the battery than 10mm, will reflect the radiated heat coming from the motor but will allow any heat in the battery to quickly vent off once the motor stops.
Thanks for your advice Tim. It’s appreciated. I do still have my usi160, I’m thinking of using it too charge my camper batteries. Thinking of:
Alternator—-maxi fuse—-USI160—6 or 4 AWG to tow bar-etc to camper batteries (going to be replaced with maybe about 200amp or so liPo4)
Haven’t decided on a camper BMS yet. Besides the 2000w Redarc inverter, I’m redoing the rest.
"Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"
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