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Thread: Longer cranking times

  1. #1
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    Longer cranking times

    Hi all,

    I've noticed the old girl (3.0L 2010 D4) is taking a bit longer to kick over when starting in the morning, or when it's sat for a few hours or more without having been driven. No codes are coming up, though thinking now I could check the 'pending' codes section.

    Anyway, one observation is that if I set the ignition to 'On' first, wait a few seconds, then push the brake and start the engine it generally fires much faster - just as it used to do all the time.

    I'm wondering, if this might be a symptom of a weak fuel lift pump (ie, the pump in the tank). Due to an electrical gremlin the car was run dry a while back, and so this may be a result of that?

    I changed the fuel filter which made no difference, and I think I've bled the diesel line in the engine (press the schrader valve with the fuel pump running) - not that it needed it.

    Any other thoughts of things to check before I start pulling the fuel tank out?
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 SE remapped to RRS output, Alaska White, GME XRS-330c, IIDTool BT, Dual Battery, Apple CarPlay, OEM Retrofitted: Cornering lights, Door card lights, Power + Heated Seats, Logic 7 audio

  2. #2
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    It won’t be the lift pump because the HPFP doesn’t really even need it to run.

    Things that will affect crank times are
    The ambient temperature - sub zero will mean the glow plugs are used
    Crank signal - suspect or failing signal means it has to turn more to get a clean signal
    Fuel pressure - injectors won’t fire until the HPFP provides the needed pressure.
    Battery - not enough juice to fire up the ECUs

    When my crank sensor started to fail it would crank longer randomly and sometimes not start. Eventually it wouldn’t start and then failed while driving.

    You want to start logging with IID at various things, or just wait until it gets worse so it’s easier to troubleshoot.
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  3. #3
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    Displaying rpm while cranking, watching for rpm staying at or dropping to zero, is the dead simple way to rule-in or out the crank sensor and much better than waiting for it to fail totally.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
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  4. #4
    BradC is offline Super Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster View Post
    The ambient temperature - sub zero will mean the glow plugs are used
    Glow plugs are used pretty much any start unless it's a hot re-start even if the lamp on the dash doesn't illuminate.

    Edit :
    "When the ignition is switched on to position II, the glow plug warning lamp illuminates and the instrument cluster
    displays 'PREHEATING' in the message center. The glow-lamp is activated separately from the glow-plugs, so is
    not illuminated during or after start. The plugs can still be ON when the lamp is off in these two phases.

    In the event of glow plug failure, the engine may be difficult to start and excessive smoke emissions may be
    observed after starting."
    MY08 D3 - The Antichrist - "Permagrimace". Turn the key and play the "will it get me home again" lottery.

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    Quote Originally Posted by veebs View Post
    ...Any other thoughts of things to check before I start pulling the fuel tank out?
    Check the condition of the megafuse located off the positive pole of your battery.

    I have recently had staring problems. The megafuse was intact but the fuse terminals had become badly burnt and pitted over the years causing resistance. Changing the fuse solved the problem.

    Megafuse.jpg
    2024 RRS on the road
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by BradC View Post
    Glow plugs are used pretty much any start unless it's a hot re-start even if the lamp on the dash doesn't illuminate.
    I definitely notice a delay when it’s sub zero or near to when the glow plug light comes on and the start is delayed by a half a second or so, which led me to point that out when discussing starting delay - but I take your point Longer cranking times
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  7. #7
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    Thanks all

    It's done it in 35 degrees and above (I'm in Perth), so hopefully the sub zero effect can be ruled out...?

    I'll definitely start logging with the IID and see if that yields some results. I'll also check the mega fuse - can't hurt

    The glow plugs makes a bit of sense, if these are used irrespective of ambient temps.

    The part that throws me is why it would behave normally simply by turning the ignition on for a few moments before starting. Maybe the glow plugs need a few extra seconds to warm up?

    Really hope it isn't the crank sensor - I watched the Germans change theirs out (after some impressive oscilloscope work) and it looks like a royal PITA.

    Which leaves the battery, and insufficient volts to fire everything up. Man, if that turns out to be the issue I'll feel like a right boob for asking - Disco 3/4 Maintenance 101!. I'll sit it on a charger overnight and see what happens first thing in the morning.

    Thanks for the ideas!
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 SE remapped to RRS output, Alaska White, GME XRS-330c, IIDTool BT, Dual Battery, Apple CarPlay, OEM Retrofitted: Cornering lights, Door card lights, Power + Heated Seats, Logic 7 audio

  8. #8
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    Battery would be my starting point. I'm on my third battery in mine and each time your symptoms are the same as I experienced.
    Cheers. LuckyLes

  9. #9
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    Have the exact same problem with TDV6

    I am now facing the exact same problem as you. It is quite weird that turning the ignition on for a few moments before starting help. Would you mind sharing how you solve this problem please?

  10. #10
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    Also could be a Diesel leak or loose fitting letting air into the fuel system. I wonder if there's a one way valve in the fuel line that stops it draining back to the tank or if it relies on the natural vacuum of a closed system?
    Last edited by RANDLOVER; 7th June 2025 at 09:32 AM. Reason: Expansion
    2005 D3 TDV6 Present
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