Have you scanned it and recorded the fault codes?
What are the codes?
That should be the very first thing you do before spending a cent on anything else.
Edit
And is this a 2.7 or a 3.0? Because they are different transmissions 6HP26 vs 6HP28.
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						Master
					
					
						SupporterHello Easter Bunnies
With 4 days off to eat chocolate eggs and work on the Disco between swims with the kids, I figured I'd start troubleshooting some "Gearbox Fault' warnings I have had that put the car into Restricted Performance mode.
Backing up a bit, my 2011 D4 started behaving badly in December with a few Gearbox Faults popping up on the Xmas migration north and back home again. The faults have happened a few times since almost always on the highway and it seems always when the engine is coasting under load (up a slight incline for example) and needs to shift down. The 1 exception was the very first time it happened, pulling out after refuelling into crawling traffic up a hill. I did not notice whether this happened shifting up or down. Pulling over and restarting the car clears the fault and returns performance to normal. I'm ashamed it's now easter before getting on to it.
I have read a few threads which have been helpful but thought I'd start my own to help as I decide to DIY or book it in for more than I can do myself.
Symptoms and general observations so far:
- Driving around town I have not had any gearbox faults but there is some slight shudder when in D and I suspect (although I might be wrong) only in 3rd gear. This only seems to happen up a slight incline. Shifting to S seems to stop the shudder.
- In similar driving circumstances I suspect the torque converter occasionally slips. The tacho needle briefly jumps and the car surges. This kind of feels like slightly pushing the clutch on a manual car when driving. The surges are about 1 second apart and seem like they would go on indefinitely, or at least as long as the incline. Shifting to S seems to stop the surging.
- Highway driving in D, again, up a slight incline almost inevitably faults. As the revs drop to about 1500 and I start wondering when the change will happen, the fault occurs. The same driving conditions in S almost entirely eliminates the fault although it has happened in S on 3 occasions.
- Gear changes at any speed are pretty smooth and there is no delay engaging gear when selecting R or D from P.
I read somewhere that the gearbox fault can occur during a bad shift like the 1500ish RPM shifts described above. I also read that the bad shift could be caused by low transmission oil, badly degraded oil, or misbehaving valves or seals in the mechatronics unit.
My first task today was just to check the fluid condition and level. I had 1.5 litres of new Lifeguard 6 so I drained the oil and refilled (following Robbie's guide). I refilled using a mix of the old oil and the 1.5 litres of the new. The old oil is dark but does not smell burnt. When wiped on a white paper towel there is no colour on the towel as the oils soaks in. So it looks like I'm ready for a change but it doesn't look like the oil has been cooked. After adding the 1.5 litres of new oil I had 750 ml of the old oil left. So I guess I was low by about 750 ml. I drove the car and the changes are smooth. I still noticed some very slight shudder in 3rd. I have a tube of Lubegard instant shudder fixx but I'm holding my guns on that for now.
I have not yet driven it on the highway but I think it's a stretch to imagine the faults won't continue to happen. Assuming I'll still get the faults the next idea is to do a proper transmission oil change (not a full flush) and change the solenoids and seals in the mechatronics unit. Seems super easy to do but at $500 or whatever worth of oil, plus new valves, seals and a gasket at a minimum I'm wondering if I'll get any change from $1500 without having addressed the torque converter. Yes, cheaper than a $7K rebuild, but not if I eventually find a rebuild is required anyway.
Changing the solenoids etc is an easy enough DIY but I'm not so sure I want to drop the gearbox myself.
I'll update after more driving but if anyone has any thoughts or similar experience, I would be very happy to hear your tales.
Thanks!
Have you scanned it and recorded the fault codes?
What are the codes?
That should be the very first thing you do before spending a cent on anything else.
Edit
And is this a 2.7 or a 3.0? Because they are different transmissions 6HP26 vs 6HP28.
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						Master
					
					
						SupporterThanks Cambo
It's a 2.7 with the 6HP26. Unfortunately I only have an iCarsoft CR Pro and the code given for the Gearbox is U2023 "Fault received from external node". There is no further info. A new scan tool is on the wish list.
For the engine there is P117D "Fuel volume regulator control exceeded maximum control limit". I do not know if this was an old code not related to the gearbox fault.
I cleared all codes to see what comes up next time.
I just returned from a 2h drive. I drove almost exclusively in D and noticed very little shudder when I would have expected to feel it and very smooth gear changes. Placebo effect perhaps. I was just starting to feel amazed (or confused) then in the last 200 m cruising up a slight incline I get the dreaded "Gearbox Fault" and the U2023 code.
Gear box faults resulting in limp mode can somtimes be caused by high pressure fuel pump problems. Don't understand the reasons behind that but have seen 2 cases of it before amoung friends D4s.
I would be monitoring fuel pump pressure if your diagnotic tool does this.
2024 RRS on the road
2011 D4 3.0 in the drive way
1999 D2 V8, in heaven
1984 RRC, in hell
In this case there’s nothing wrong with your transmission, you’ve got fuel pump issues
2009 Range Rover Sport 3.6L TDV8
2017 Jaguar XE R-Sport
Supercharged Jags XKR & XJR 4.2L S/C
Old Jaguar Australia - www.facebook.com/oldjaguarau
Upgrades and retrofits for late model Land Rover and Jaguar vehicles. www.oldjaguar.com
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						Master
					
					
						SupporterGreat tips thanks. I'll see if the iCarsoft has the chops and if not I'll get something that will. (Best left to another thread but there seems to be a few now that rival the GAP iiD.)
I read somewhere that the Gearbox Fault can happen when the measured torque does not match the torque predicted by the ECU or something of the sort and that this usually happens during a gear change. I have a feeling I also read that a clogged fuel filter can be responsible for a momentary drop in torque resulting in the mismatch between the measured and predicted torque and in turn the Gearbox Fault. Perhaps that was a dream.
At least this is an easy and inexpensive job to try. And now I can do it dressed all in white after the degrease and clean I did today from the transfer case forward. Such a satisfying way to waste the afternoon.
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						TopicToaster
					
					
						SubscriberIt’ll be your HPFP like on every other 2.7L. You can try the filter and lift pump but I’ll put good money on the HPFP.
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
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						Master
					
					
						SupporterAwesome. Thanks very much.
I'm happy to try the HPFP. This one? Attention Required! | Cloudflare
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						TopicToaster
					
					
						Subscriber Master
					
					
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						Master
					
					
						SupporterThanks DiscoJeffster. Watching vids now. I thought the Discovery was build around the heater matrix. I'm now thinking the D4 was build around the HPFP. Looks like a long day.
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