Thread: 2011 D4 'Gearbox Fault' warning

Originally Posted by Bananas

I didn't get around to pulling the pan off a few weeks back to check the valve body and separator version. I have some time today but I do not have a new gasket to use.

Do you think I can get away using the old gasket (perhaps with help from some Loctite 574 or 515) for a few weeks while the new parts arrive? Or do I do something else today?

Thanks!

I reused the duraprene gasket that came with the steel pan and its bone dry.

Great thanks. I don't mind a bit of weep for a few weeks - it'll motivate me to get the job done. But if I'm going to dump a litre on my driveway in the mean time , that's a different matter.

For interest, during recent replacement of radiator I had to also top off the gearbox since the quantity of oil in radiator is lost.

I used the opportunity to pump out a quantity of oil as well from the supply hose to the radiator. Got about 3.5 litres doing this.

I then went through the fill process at 40C temp and ultimately pumped in about 4.5 - 4.7 litres.

I don’t know what the radiator cooler capacity is but the gearbox behaviour is absolutely restored to smooth changes.

Previously especially on cold start there was a noticeable harsh jump from 1-2. Now it’s gone so assume I was slightly low on oil having read they are extremely sensitive to the correct oil level.

Pan and filter are off...

Time to pound the credit card

With the engine bash plate on is good skills

Strangely it didn't occur to me to take it off. Surgeons hands and Buddhist monk level patience. Those 5 along the front are tricky little suckers.
All back together and topped back up. Idling now waiting for 69 deg C transmission oil temp before the final top up below 30 deg C tomorrow morning.

Originally Posted by Bananas

Strangely it didn't occur to me to take it off. Surgeons hands and Buddhist monk level patience. Those 5 along the front are tricky little suckers.
All back together and topped back up. Idling now waiting for 69 deg C transmission oil temp before the final top up below 30 deg C tomorrow morning.

I’m pretty sure you want the gearbox at 36c degrees when topping it off, while the engine is running. That said most of the internet commentary says anything from 30-50c

Thanks. Seems there are a few different temps quoted. I followed Robbie's Guide but I could not get the transmission oil temp above 61 deg anyway. Even with a 15 min drive. So I gave up, let it cool and did the final top up (once again according to Robbie's Guide).

Drove for 3.5 hours today and it didn't fall out on the road.

But while I was driving I was wondering, do I do the valve body rebuild or do I trade up and get the gearbox rebuilt? I'm hoping to solve shifting weirdness with the valve body rebuild, but there is also a vibration between 117 and 125 km/h ish to solve, a whine from somewhere and a backlash type clunk when accelerating sharply after coasting. I'm guessing the vibration is a prop shaft and the whine is the front diff. Perhaps a rebuild is over the top since the gear box seems otherwise fine except that the TC skips a bit sometimes.

Then there's oil at the turbo intake side I think, and a few other oily bits that should probably only be oily on the inside to fixate on.