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Thread: 2011 D4 'Gearbox Fault' warning

  1. #131
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    2011 D4 'Gearbox Fault' warning

    The ZF procedure for the 6HP26 says the level is correct when a small stream comes out at 40degC.

    You start checking between 30-35degC, with the engine idling cycle between D and R (pause briefly at each) then back to P, then remove filler plug and wait for the temperature to hit 40degC where only a small stream should come out.

    If you check above 50degC then the resulting level will be too low.


  2. #132
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    Agree 40 is the target. When the gearbox is in R or D with foot on brake is when the temp actually rises. Idling in P doesn’t move the dial.

  3. #133
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    2011 D4 'Gearbox Fault' warning

    It is the ZF 8HP that has the different procedure and you need to get above 75degC first to open a thermostat valve, but then wait for it to cool down below 30degC to start the level checking - which is then done between 30-50degC but has more steps involved where you rev the engine at 2000rpm for 30 seconds once above 30degC and also hold it in D, D1, D2, and R for 10 seconds each before then checking the final level.

    Whilst 40degC would be the mid point for the correct level the ZF 8HP procedure does not set an exact point like the ZF 6HP as long as you are above 30degC when you start, and still below 50degC by the time you are finished.

    With the ZF 6HP26, after an oil change and level check as per the ZF procedure, I still then take it for a drive to get fully hot, then redo the level check procedure starting from cold the next day and rechecking at 40degC. It then may need another top up suggesting the ZF6 procedure probably should add the same “get it hot” step as per the ZF8.

  4. #134
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    Thanks very much DiscoDB. That's very helpful.

    I'm still psyching for the valve body rebuild. More to the point, trying to scratch out a free weekend. I'll be ordering parts tonight. On the shopping list so far are:

    (ZF6HP26)
    Zip kit (Still a bit unsure whether I need a Gen 1 or Gen 2 kit)
    Solenoids
    Filter
    Gasket
    Oil
    Separator plate (I've confirmed I need a B plate)
    Valve Body to Transmission seals
    Mechatronics Case Connector Seal
    Anything else?

    (Useful link: 6HP26, 6HP26X - ZF by Transmission | Transmissions)

  5. #135
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    Pretty sure the earlier HP26 takes the Gen 1 ZIP kit, thr later HP28 uses thr Gen2 kit. Flick the team at sonnax an email with the transmission serial number to be extra sure.

  6. #136
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    Thank Eric

    You are correct. I got nervous and checked with Sonnax. They were super fast with a response and definitive answer. I've been a bit busy at work so have been dragging the chain. It'll be mid Sept before I get to it unfortunately.

    Sonnax confirmed I need:


    Valve Body Separator Plate: Part No. 95740-052 (1068 327 180 is stamped on my valve body and B052 on the plate in my gearbox).
    Zip Kit®: Part No. ZF6-6R60-ZIP (For Gen 1 ZF6Hp19/26/32)


    They also suggested this link: Sonnax How to Identify Similar Ford & ZF6 Transmissions — Four Features to Check Before You Begin a Rebuild

    Thanks again to everyone for the tips.

  7. #137
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    Committed now. Always the bulk bargain buyer, I went silly with the oil. 20L. The drum may well outlast the car.

  8. #138
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    You'll be surprised how quick 20l goes, don't forget to flush the front mounted cooler, that takes a good 5-8l on its own....

  9. #139
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    Yeah a good flush with a drop and refill approach takes three rounds of fluid and uses about 18L when I did it.
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  10. #140
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    Hi Guys

    Life has been too busy to devote a full weekend to the D4 so I'm getting everything ready for the Xmas holidays. I have everything for the gearbox job including the Zip Kit, separator plate and associated bits and pieces. This job will hopefully conclude the original reasons for this thread (the new HPFP has been working like a charm but the hesitation when shifting and occasional harsh shift still persist).

    However I'm also considering new injectors since the engine is still on the original ones and I just feel in my bones they are well overdue for some love. I get a bit of black smoke pulling away from lights or planting it to overtake. VDO branded ones are only about $530 each so I'm happy to take a 3.5K punt on the exercise (OEM Ford ones are just over 1K each a pop at the moment).

    The questions I have are:
    - Does anyone know the injector seat size so I can make sure I have the right size seat cutter available when I go to clean the seats? I'm guessing a 17mm flat cutter is the one, but I cannot find anywhere that confirms this.

    - Does anyone have any experience with VDO injectors for the D4? BRAND NEW GENUINE VDO FORD TERRITORY 2.7L INJECTOR A2C59513553 – THE DIESEL DOCTOR AUSTRALIA

    Thanks very much.

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