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Thread: 2011 D4 'Gearbox Fault' warning

  1. #141
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    Best of luck with the ZF, it's easy once you get into it. Hardest part for me was the cross member and clearance, ended up removing the cross beam and supporting the engine and transmission.

    Give me a shout if you need advice.

  2. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE View Post
    You'll be surprised how quick 20l goes, don't forget to flush the front mounted cooler, that takes a good 5-8l on its own....
    Started the valve body rebuild this afternoon. Dropped the oil and pan so I'm ready to rumble tomorrow. Watching this video 10x over tonight till I dream about it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CBhpwIWLBLg

    This is a good one too: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7DZbrvrI5k

    What 's the process of flushing the front mounted cooler? Is this part of the main radiator on the LHS?
    Last edited by Bananas; 22nd December 2024 at 08:02 PM. Reason: Added 2nd video

  3. #143
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    Rather than trying to clear out all elements of the system, I’ve always taken the approach of a triple flush which gets you to nearly fresh oil.

    My biggest advice is pay attention to where the ball bearings reside. There are more locations than ball bearings so make sure you take note where there’re installed in the valve body!
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  4. #144
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    2011 D4 'Gearbox Fault' warning

    I’ve just done mine just oil & filter and the rubber seal kit.

    About 5000km ago when I did the new radiator I put in about 4.5 litres which was the combination of the radiator and a Filo pump out. So I think the radiator capacity is not so large.

    Then last week I did another Filo pump out in the afternoon and then dropped the pan and mechatronics plate the following morning to get the maximum gravity fall into the pan.

    All in all measured what I took out except what dribbled off the mechatronics I added about 6.5 litres to level it off at 40C.

    At the next oil change I’ll do another Filo pump out which is by far the cleanest and easiest way of dealing with the oil. So that gets about 14 or so litres through it over 10k kms.

    Driving and changing gears like a dream 308k kms still untouched other than normal service items - touch wood.

    If you look at the radiator I cannot see how the transmission fluid enters the main radiator space other than taking volume within the side tank. I assume it’s a circuit inside the tank cooled by the cooled radiator water as the passenger side tank has the outlet for the engine at the bottom which is the most cooled water. My guess is no more than 1 litre for the 2.7D. The pumping speed is also very fast so how this does much cooling is a mystery.


  5. #145
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    After a day of distractions I got the valve body rebuilt and new solenoids installed.

    I reinstalled the valve body and new sleeve but reconnecting the plug has me stumped for now.

    What am I missing? Do you install the plug in the sleeve and then stuff it into the gear box or does the sleeve go in first, then the plug? And should the plastic locking tab move only when the plug is pushed home?

  6. #146
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bananas View Post
    After a day of distractions I got the valve body rebuilt and new solenoids installed.

    I reinstalled the valve body and new sleeve but reconnecting the plug has me stumped for now.

    What am I missing? Do you install the plug in the sleeve and then stuff it into the gear box or does the sleeve go in first, then the plug? And should the plastic locking tab move only when the plug is pushed home?
    The sleeve goes into the box. You then attach the plug to the sleeve
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  7. #147
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    2011 D4 'Gearbox Fault' warning

    Quote Originally Posted by Bananas View Post
    After a day of distractions I got the valve body rebuilt and new solenoids installed.

    I reinstalled the valve body and new sleeve but reconnecting the plug has me stumped for now.

    What am I missing? Do you install the plug in the sleeve and then stuff it into the gear box or does the sleeve go in first, then the plug? And should the plastic locking tab move only when the plug is pushed home?
    Yes the sleeve only fits in in the right orientation with the key way. Each time I’ve had tears in my eyes because I can’t push the locking tab back up after several attempts. The only way is to get a large bar or piece of wood and carefully lever the sleeve in the last few mms using the chassis rail. Make sure well lubed. Only when the last mm is achieved the tab effortlessly moves. Then the plug.

    Make sure the shift locator is in the right spot also.

  8. #148
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    Thanks guys. I'll give it a go now.

    This makes it look easy from about 8 minutes to 9.40: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fbU5oK0Pwus

    It's frustrating when the small tasks become monumental challenges of patience.

  9. #149
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    Make sure you have the pin of the selector located correctly in the plastic slider or you'll be pulling the pan off to adjust it.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
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    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  10. #150
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    Bugger

    Pretty sure I followed all steps very carefully doing the zip kit and solenoids but I've done something wrong.

    When selecting reverse it doesn't shift into reverse although the engine pitch changes like it's under load, and I get the dreaded GEARBOX FAULT in the dash.

    P0736-62 (2F) Reverse incorrect ratio - Algorithm based failure - Signal compare failure. on the iiD

    I have not yet reset the adaptions although I guess that's a logical place to start.

    Any ideas?

    I have installed:
    the zip kit
    new separator plate
    the 4 tubular seals up into the gear box (these stuck out by about 2 mm before putting the valve body on;
    the 'goggles' seal
    the transmission plug sleeve
    solenoids
    All bolts torqued to the correct values.

    I put about 3 litres lifeguard 6 in and was just starting the warm up procedure to top to the correct level.

    Bugger
    Last edited by Bananas; 24th December 2024 at 01:37 PM. Reason: forgot the separator plate

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