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Thread: 2011 D4 'Gearbox Fault' warning

  1. #171
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoDB View Post
    Don’t disagree with you loanrangie - but you should not reset adaptions on a worn gearbox unless it has a new clutch pack fitted.

    Applying “as new” pressures and shift settings to a worn clutch pack can do even more damage if you don’t do the relearn process correctly.

    To prevent a more expensive repair, I would still recommend following a relearn process if you do reset the adaptions. It won’t fix a TC problem but will help protect the clutch pack.

    Actually ZF specify to reset adaptions after any hardware change, ie solenoids. I didn't do any relearning process and didn't have any surging or off shifting, i just drove sedately for a few days - yeah right
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
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  2. #172
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    Very helpful again guys, thanks.

    I definitely get the surging happening when going up an incline and trying to maintain a steady speed at speeds above 70. It also happens to a lesser degree from 3rd and up when accelerating up to 70.

    I had the iid tool out trying to get useful info about the TC observing when it was ‘open’ ‘regulated’ or ‘closed’. It was rarely in the closed state and the surging would happen during the regulated state. I don’t know what to make of that. After a few YouTube animations of how the TC works though, they are truely an engineering masterpiece.

    In the mean time I thought I’d lift the bonnet after lunch today to contemplate the injectors for tomorrow’s pre NYE silliness. Got a bit carried away and am up to pulling the fuel lines and leak off lines. But I’ll leave those to tomorrow.

    Unfortunately I noticed a bit of oil down in the valley near the oil filter so I took the throttle body off to investigate and clean up. There is a fair bit of oil inside the throttle body (cracked flange on one of the outlets seems to be the leak). Do I now need to loose sleep over the turbo too, or is oil in the throttle body normal??? What a joy.

  3. #173
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    They’re very oily engines. Any leaks in your intake will coat the engine. I wouldn’t lose sleep over that.

    Hopefully you won’t need a slide hammer like I did to get one of my injectors out. I welded the slide hammer to a fuel pipe I sacrificed, screwed the pipe to the injector and hammered away for about ten minutes. Eventually got it free. The others lifted out with little to no effort.
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  4. #174
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    Slide hammer and welder is at the ready. I’m hoping they are not needed. And I’ll learn to embrace the oil!

  5. #175
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bananas View Post
    Slide hammer and welder is at the ready. I’m hoping they are not needed. And I’ll learn to embrace the oil!
    Mark the positions of the hard fuel lines before removal, i would try a couple of tubes of dr tranny and see if that changes anything.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  6. #176
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    A bad oil filter change can let a lot of oil into the valley which creates the illusion of something worse.

    I have a oil suction device which has a very skinny tube that I can get into the valley

  7. #177
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    So I got up, had a swim at the beach, had breaky and a coffee, pulled 5 out by hand and was thinking how nice, for all the kicks in the balls 2024 had in store for me that it was good the injector job was going well…..then #6. The one close to the battery box. The least accessible. 4 fricken hours (and a wayward finger in the slide hammer) and at last it’s free. One last kick in the nuts for 2024 I guess.

    Clean up then beer o clock.

    Happy NYE all. Thanks for your generous help so far.

  8. #178
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bananas View Post
    So I got up, had a swim at the beach, had breaky and a coffee, pulled 5 out by hand and was thinking how nice, for all the kicks in the balls 2024 had in store for me that it was good the injector job was going well…..then #6. The one close to the battery box. The least accessible. 4 fricken hours (and a wayward finger in the slide hammer) and at last it’s free. One last kick in the nuts for 2024 I guess.

    Clean up then beer o clock.

    Happy NYE all. Thanks for your generous help so far.
    Mine was the drivers side rear. Like you say, couldn’t be more awkwardly positioned!
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  9. #179
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    Bugger. Just started up and took it for a drive. Bloody injector in the same position as the one that was seized is leaking. I torqued it down but clearly it’s not sealing on the copper washer properly. Hopefully it will come out easily so I can see what’s up with it.

  10. #180
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bananas View Post
    Bugger. Just started up and took it for a drive. Bloody injector in the same position as the one that was seized is leaking. I torqued it down but clearly it’s not sealing on the copper washer properly. Hopefully it will come out easily so I can see what’s up with it.
    Fudge. I was lucky. New washers and a little manual cleaning of the seat and it was okay. I had looked into a seat reamer. I think that’s likely what you’ll need to do
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

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