I was not able to get mine out. I instead unscrewed the sensor on the top and replaced it from the new unit I had. Resolved the issue without having to get it out.
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						Supporter Fuel Filter Housing Removal
 Fuel Filter Housing Removal
		Hello,
Help!! from anyone who has successfully removed the filter housing.
or any links to describe how to remove, i did an unsuccessful search.
Im getting the water in the fuel code, so im replacing the housing.
the housing is unbolted, the fuel hoses at the housing are disconnected, the fuel lines on the transmission are disconnected,
the fuel lines are still in position.
How do you remove the housing?
it won't come forward because of the metal bar running along the back of the housing.
do you slide it to the centre of the car to get clearance, the fuel lines are in the way.
thanks
Woz
 TopicToaster
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						TopicToaster
					
					
						SubscriberI was not able to get mine out. I instead unscrewed the sensor on the top and replaced it from the new unit I had. Resolved the issue without having to get it out.
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
Another job I have been meaning to do.On one of the forums read easy way to installation was to cut a corner off the mounting bracket.Which I have doneIMGP0298.jpg nothing about hard it is to remove!
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						TopicToaster
					
					
						Subscriber2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
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		its out, you have to be ruthless, because it was being replaced i didnt care what happened to the old housing.
it came out forward, once you get the angle piece along the back up on the frame, i then placed a large flat screwdriver between the base and the frame and levered to compress the housing. you can then use a large phillips head to insert into the bolt hole on the base of the housing and lever it out.
i didnt just cut an angle on the new housing, i cut the bracket completly off (there are 2 bolts holding the housing) and also cut the moulding off the top section, 2 circular about 10mm on the top, cut them of flush with the steel section of the housing.
Also tried dropping the cross member on the housing side about 100mm didnt help.
once the paint is dry where i cut the bracket i will have a go at fitting the new housing, and report.
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						Super ModeratorI did the same. Bent the original sufficiently to get it out without much swearing and trimmed the corner on the new one, which was easier to get in than the oil separator is to get out.
MY08 D3 - The Antichrist - "Permagrimace". Turn the key and play the "will it get me home again" lottery.
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		The new housing is in, wasn't too much trouble,
Don't do what I did, don't connect the fuel hoses to the transmission before installing the housing.
The worst part of the job is fighting those fuel lines, they are hard plastic and don't like moving.
you have to get the ends of the lines below the crossmember as far out of the way as possible.
i have included a pic of the fuel lines, were they clip onto the housing, that's the worst part.
also, the housing modifications before installing.
i would like to know how the job is done by mechanics.
do you remove the crossmember and slide the housing to the center of the car, then maneuver between the transmission and fuel tank.
I will not be happy if I get the Water in the fuel error again!!
thanks to all that replied.
Woz
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						SubscriberI’ll stick to my one screw repair process. Far simpler and easier
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
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						Master
					
					
						SupporterSadly glad to hear others have struggled with this too
Can I please confirm which bolts need to be removed to remove the housing?
The ones at the bottom of this picture?
fuel-filter-housing.jpg
DiscoJeffster, my mind boggles how you reach that one screw!
Nuggets
Discovery 4 3.0L 2010
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