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Thread: Disco 4 Buying advice - coolant leak, air-con not cold

  1. #1
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    Disco 4 Buying advice - coolant leak, air-con not cold

    Hey all,

    Went and inspected what I thought to be the pick of the vehicles available for sale currently. (Disco 4, 2014 3.0 TDV6)

    I found a low coolant alarm, and a damp area on the road where it's been leaking. Starting the car showed the coolant leaking in below pics (somewhere at the rear of the engine)


    Nothing was visible from the top of the engine. Wondering whether there is a typical component that fails to cause a leak like this? Or any other potential causes, and some worst-case costs to repair them?


    Also found the air conditioning wasn't cool in the front, but the rear was slightly cool. According to other threads, it's most likely the compressor or part thereof at fault. There did seem to be a slight moan while the A/C was turned on (from engine bay area), turning off immediately stopped it.

    Otherwise, it was a very nice ride, no other engine noises to be heard - so was very disappointing discovering these issues! I'm hoping that all is not lost, and it's a predictable repair cost.

    Many thanks for your advice

  2. #2
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    Coolant system is mainly plastic parts that fail due to heat cycles, the gitting into the block is a known issue with the later D3s and early D4's. Pita to get to. There's also a breather plug in the top crossover pipe, these can leak, but are pennies to fix and easily accessible.

    What you describe sounds like the oil cooler may have failed/be failing, check the valley between the manifolds and also the expansion tank.
    They fail "safe' in that you either leak oil into the coolant, or coolant out to atmosphere, rarely coolant into oil. Cooler is nestled under the intake between the v, relatively easy to change out.

    Coolant system flush is recommended, use demin water and flush a few times, refill with correct concentration long life coolant.

    Re A/C, typically the pcv in the compressor sticks, can be unstuck with a reverse shot of compressed air, but you still need to empty the system and get it recharged. likely a new compressor and full ac system flush will be needed.

    If everything else is OK, use these to drive the price down. For coolant system repairs, including oil cooler, I reckon 1.5-2k, A/C $2400 for a new compressor with labour to pull the old one and refit.

  3. #3
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    As above but with mine leaking coolant in a similar area it was the plastic coolant piece in the middle of the V at the front of the engine.

  4. #4
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    Great info, thank you. Have contacted seller and will hopefully negotiate a good outcome for both of us.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE View Post
    Coolant system is mainly plastic parts that fail due to heat cycles, the gitting into the block is a known issue with the later D3s and early D4's. Pita to get to. There's also a breather plug in the top crossover pipe, these can leak, but are pennies to fix and easily accessible.

    What you describe sounds like the oil cooler may have failed/be failing, check the valley between the manifolds and also the expansion tank.
    They fail "safe' in that you either leak oil into the coolant, or coolant out to atmosphere, rarely coolant into oil. Cooler is nestled under the intake between the v, relatively easy to change out.

    Coolant system flush is recommended, use demin water and flush a few times, refill with correct concentration long life coolant.

    Re A/C, typically the pcv in the compressor sticks, can be unstuck with a reverse shot of compressed air, but you still need to empty the system and get it recharged. likely a new compressor and full ac system flush will be needed.

    If everything else is OK, use these to drive the price down. For coolant system repairs, including oil cooler, I reckon 1.5-2k, A/C $2400 for a new compressor with labour to pull the old one and refit.
    Well it was a good guess. Seller repaired the oil cooler (along with thermostat housing and breather tube), and I picked it up yesterday.

    Still need to fix the A/C - it's making a definite whine when it's on. Let's hope it hasn't spewed grey death through the system like I've read about elsewhere.

    Thanks!

  6. #6
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    We were told the AC compressor needed replacement - $3k and then went elsewhere by luck and PCV for $1100. So check it out, the PCV is really common on these.
    2011 SDV6 3.0L + Torus Kakadu, Winchbar, UHF, roof racks, 1 wife, 4 dogs, not enough fishing rods, and Wallabies supporter.

  7. #7
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    If it's whining then check the pulley bearing. If it isn't cold upon start up, then it may be the PCV, or worst case compressor replacement.

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