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Thread: Cruise - Speed Control Input Voltage

  1. #1
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    Cruise - Speed Control Input Voltage

    Hey guys,
    Been trying to chase down a cruise control issue for weeks now. Clock spring seems to be working, steering wheel look seems good too.
    I've plugged in the IID and noticed I'm getting 0v on the Speed Control Input Voltage. Any idea what sends that voltage signal? Doing my head in

  2. #2
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    Maybe explain what the problem is you’re trying to solve. That will be more helpful to resolving your issue Cruise - Speed Control Input Voltage
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  3. #3
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    Apologies.
    The cruise control doesn't activate anymore. No fault codes.
    2010 Disco 4, 2.7 TDV6

  4. #4
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    I would replace the brake light switch unless already recently replaced.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

  5. #5
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    I forgot how fun Land Rover electronics are

    Had the cruise able to activate for about 5 seconds before cancelling itself on a drive today, and not reactivate. I took my foot off the accelerator once the cruise activated, wondering if maybe the sensor is having an issue? i don't have any fault codes on my GAP to do with cruise related items

  6. #6
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    A faulty brake switch that indicates that the pedal has been pressed will cancel CC with the only indication the momentary message that CC has been cancelled. The brake switch is quite inexpensive and LR can sometimes be the cheapest source but as the switch is a Ford switch it can be purchased from many sources.
    The switch has 2 sets of contacts so even though the brake lights aren't on, CC can be cancelled or inhibitted.
    I always carried a spare when I had a D4 because they commonly fail and can cause other systems to not operate fully because the brakes are applied.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skmitchell91 View Post
    I forgot how fun Land Rover electronics are

    Had the cruise able to activate for about 5 seconds before cancelling itself on a drive today, and not reactivate. I took my foot off the accelerator once the cruise activated, wondering if maybe the sensor is having an issue? i don't have any fault codes on my GAP to do with cruise related items
    Bit of a non-sense flash back there No LR electrical in the vehicle what-so-ever....

    Welcome to Canbus - something universal....

  8. #8
    BradC is online now Super Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post
    Bit of a non-sense flash back there No LR electrical in the vehicle what-so-ever....

    Welcome to Canbus - something universal....
    That's not quite correct. "CANBus" is simply a protocol that sits on a bus that's mostly electrically compatible with RS485 (differential pair). So the electrical characteristics are defined, along with the low level protocol. The electrics in the vehicle that aren't made by Ford are mostly still assembled and completely wired by Landrover, as is the configuration. So yeah, it's still "LR" electrics. It's just that most of the modules (the ones that aren't LIN Bus) speak CAN.
    MY08 D3 - The Antichrist - "Permagrimace". Turn the key and play the "will it get me home again" lottery.

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    The ins and outs of CanBus:

    "Achtung!
    Alle touristen und non-technischen lookenpeepers! Das machine is nicht fur fingerpoken und mittengrabben. Is easy schnappen der springenwerk, blowenfusen und poppencorken mit spitzen sparken. Das machine is diggen by experten only. Is nicht fur gerwerken by das dummkopfen. Das rubbernecken sightseeren keepen das cottenpicken hands in das pockets. Relaxen und watchen das blinkenlights."

    Actually, later Land Rovers are using a more modern protocol:

    CAN bus is an interesting subject but quite old technology now that JLR are gradually phasing out with the introduction of Flexray and other networks



  10. #10
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    I'll throw a new brake switch in and see how it goes. Interesting that it isn't throwing a code and the lights still work fine, but i digress.
    I'm not seeing 5V on the Speed Control Input on my GAP which i think i should be seeing? Following the wire diagrams is a PITA to see where this is coming from, but i know i have voltage coming in and out of the clockspring

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