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Thread: Front up n down while driving

  1. #1
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    Front up n down while driving

    Hi guys, I am 99% certain there's no air leaks any more, yet I still have the front go up and down intermittently... would it be the sensors? They've never been replaced

  2. #2
    BradC is offline Super Moderator
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    Do you have a diagnostic tool? When I had an issue with my front valve block, it was incredibly helpful to be able to display the 4 sensors on the screen in "real time" to watch what was going on.

    Mine is a 2008 and still on its first set of sensors. They are electro-mechanical potentiometers, so I'm sure they wear out but it's not something I've seen as a common issue.
    MY08 D3 - The Antichrist - "Permagrimace". Turn the key and play the "will it get me home again" lottery.

  3. #3
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    Yes I've got the iidgap tool. I'll take it for a drive with it connected and see if I can pin point it

  4. #4
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    They may still be ok but need recalibrating. There's set dimensions from the ground to the top of each wheel arch that you need to aim for, by adjusting the offset in each corner.

  5. #5
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    Yep yep, I did the calibration to measurement on each corner.
    It's probably because the ball joints and 2 of the lower control ambushes are worn, so much so that the ball joints click sometimes...

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Disclarkery4 View Post
    Yep yep, I did the calibration to measurement on each corner.
    It's probably because the ball joints and 2 of the lower control ambushes are worn, so much so that the ball joints click sometimes...
    Sounds like you have bigger issues than just ride height. Reckon you could fix those first.
    ​JayTee

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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Disclarkery4 View Post
    Yep yep, I did the calibration to measurement on each corner.
    It's probably because the ball joints and 2 of the lower control ambushes are worn, so much so that the ball joints click sometimes...
    Probably the #1reason then, the sensors doesn't know where to set the height as it's constantly changing geometry of the upper and lower arms.

    Get the Mehle HD replacement arms, complete with bushes and ball joints, easier to change out than removing bushes and splitting ball joints from the arms.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE View Post
    Get the Mehle HD replacement arms, complete with bushes and ball joints, easier to change out than removing bushes and splitting ball joints from the arms.
    Yes. You could do this. Or you could get genuine arms which would be my recommendation. In either event, make sure you have the ability, workshop manual and tools to change them over. And that you can get it to a wheel alignment place that understands that the suspension needs to be placed into TTL mode.
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  9. #9
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    Yes, can do that, however the mehle kit has oversized ball joints (35mm over 32mm from memory) and the bushes in the lower arm are better as not being the prone to failure hydra-bush. So a better solution imho.

  10. #10
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    Are the heavy duty arms mentioned rubber or poly bushings?
    Discovery 1 4.6, true trac front and rear, superior engineering arms,old tourer now bush toy
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