Thread: D4 SDV6 dead engine - what next?

I would recommend getting a low km engine from a wreckers, and replacing the bearings with tri-metal ones instead of the factory sputter bearings. My MY10 D4's engine went back in November, and has just had this done. I was very hesitant in replacing the D4 with another due to the fact that the next one would be a ticking time bomb too. I was lucky enough to get over 300k kms before mine went, but it was always at the back of my mind. Luckily it happened when and where it did, as it was 15 mins from home.
The new motor only has 120k kms on it, and I was able to get it for under $7k delivered (Melbourne to Wagga). I also managed to talk them into including both turbos. New motor then had main and big end bearings changed to tri-metal type, both manifolds changed from my dead motor (I had replaced with latest parts number ones recently), water outlet housing changed, cam sprockets changed to latest type and of course the timing/HPFP belts were done.

Late last year my son found a low km engine c/w turbos for less than what most wreckers want bare to replace his 2010 3.0 that failed. The bearings and camshaft sprockets were replaced as were the inlet manifolds and belts with the idea of preventing another failure due to bearings or camshaft sprockets. The car is running well except that I'm still waiting on a G4 IIDtool to calibrate the secondary turbine valve's off position which is causing restricted performance, being not exactly the same as the old turbine valve's off posiiton. The plan to keep the vehicle for many years has changed due to my son deciding that he wanted my 4.4 TDV8 L322 when I recently purchased a late L405, so the D4 will be sold once a few items have been tidied-up. Hopefully the D4 will sell for more than what it cost to replace the engine and the various other parts that were renewed.

Edit: my son beat me to it!

Originally Posted by Graeme

Edit: my son beat me to it!

I was suspicious

You could get a price from the mob below.

Land Rover Engine Specialist | Jaguar Engine Specialist

Last time i checked it was approxc $25k tow in drive out for reconditioned motor supposedly with upgraded crank.

By time you buy another you would probably be up for similar cost.

Cheers

Originally Posted by Graeme

... The car is running well except that I'm still waiting on a G4 IIDtool to calibrate the secondary turbine valve's off position which is causing restricted performance, being not exactly the same as the old turbine valve's off posiiton. The plan to keep the vehicle for many years has changed due to my son deciding that he wanted my 4.4 TDV8 L322 when I recently purchased a late L405, so the D4 will be sold once a few items have been tidied-up. Hopefully the D4 will sell for more than what it cost to replace the engine and the various other parts that were renewed.

Edit: my son beat me to it!

Hi Graeme. Congrats on replacing your dream vehicle!

My D4 engine has had (since new when towing) an intermittent low power mode, fixable by restarting. But it became permanent, but only if towing. All to do with the 2nd turbo.

First try was replacing the actuator for the 2nd turbo. It did not work.

The cause was found to be the vacuum lines. They are evidently all taped together. Rova Range pulled the lines from I think Jason's sister's D4, and tried those in my D4. It then worked properly. They thereby isolated the issue. They tore apart the taped vacuum lines, and found a hairline crack in one line. So they ordered a kit of vacuum lines for my car from LR and the solenoids. The vacuum line with the hairline split explains why it only happened while towing, and now and then. I hadn't towed for maybe 18 months - I went to NSW from Melbourne towing, and this time it went into low power mode almost continuously. I guess the split hose got more brittle or stiff with age, and hence more air escaped and it did not close up, producing a fault at 20% of the 2nd turbo boost. You could ring Jason and he could explain the parts required. But your son's fault sounds like mine. I haven't tested the vehicle though - my son has a 6 week scanning job of a large factory near Karratha W.A., a few hundred K south of Broome near Weipa. He cannot fly all his sensitive gear there, and was going to drive the old petrol Prado, but the site doesn't accept petrol vehicles, so he's taking the Disco, which he wants to buy from me. I got the vehicle back at 3:00pm yesterday, I din't test it, I dropped it straight around to my sone, and he left early this morning. It's over a 4k drive one way. I've been fearful taking Disco towing in W.A. as you know ... and now my son wants the vehicle too. I do like the bearings idea though. Mine has 119,000 km on it at the moment. Will be closing on 124,000 by Saturday, and I guess 128-129 when he's back.

Let me know about your car when its ready too ... I still haven't bought a vehicle for the W.A. touring for 4-5 months trip. It sounds silly for me to buy a 300 series for just a 5 month trip. And all the vehicles that are serviceable in W.A. or under factory warranty, aren't good around town IMO, accept perhaps a Defender, and they are expensive and not as roomy or comfortable IMO as even the D4. And I am resentful about the lack of spare engines. If Land Rover were one quarter serious, they'd provide an adapter kit to Ford for spare engines. But also my Indy reports they've seen a few Fords with failed engines, so the issue continues.

The fault code indicates that the turbine valve's closed position isn't what is recorded in the ECM so the ECM thinks that the valve is stuck, when really the ECM needs to learn the closed position of this valve.
I'm currently trying to remove the OBD connector to remove 2 wires that aren't used by diagnostics but their presence prevents a G4 IDTool from working with the D4.

Originally Posted by Graeme

The fault code indicates that the turbine valve's closed position isn't what is recorded in the ECM so the ECM thinks that the valve is stuck, when really the ECM needs to learn the closed position of this valve.
I'm currently trying to remove the OBD connector to remove 2 wires that aren't used by diagnostics but their presence prevents a G4 IDTool from working with the D4.

Do you have an OBD extension cable? Probably quicker and easier to snip the cores in an extension rather than make a permanent change.

I only throw that out there because I have a couple, and one in the car permanently so the IID sits behind the console above the connector.

That was my plan but finding the correct wires in the sealed connectors would have been problematic.
The OBD socket is retained by 2 horiontal torx screws from behind the panel. The offending wires were cut and taped, leaving enough length to rejoin if necessary.

The turbine valve has been calibrated (the IIDTool had a 5-second count-down, but required the engine to be at least 70C). Now there's another restricted performance fault P00BD-07 regarding either the CSOV or the primary MAF. The CSOV vacuum hose looked OK but I'll have a proper look tomorrow in daylight.