Thread: D4 Aircon Compressor Replacement

Originally Posted by BradC

The shorter belt is about $55. Good for an emergency, but a bit expensive as a piece of diagnostic test gear!

I'll wait for a break in the rain and get in there again.

Cheaper than a compressor you don't need, but I get your point

Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

Cheaper than a compressor you don't need, but I get your point

If you need to drive the car its also cheaper than grenading the internals through the whole system which I'd imagine will eventually happen, you'd expect roughness on the pulley bearing even though external will impact internals sooner rather than later. I am getting nervous so will check tomorrow whether that is option for D4 or not while I figure out how to get job done, rather than rushing it.

For D4 visually from above it looks like the compressor it a little too high, but I'll get in back in there tomorrow morning and see if there is a line from bottom of steering pump to bottom of crank pulley avoiding the top of compressor pully.

Originally Posted by PerthDisco

This is very good info as I pondered doing this job DIY. Step 1 would be getting it degassed somewhere then tear it apart in your shed. Then you are a bit stuck in terms of a flush unless you find a mobile specialist. Even driving around with the system reassembled but off is not ideal.

Not sure if your a D4, but cost at Just a moment... vs 2K at well priced indy, or $3.4K for compressor and condenser all done makes it appealing, but I am time poor so still juggling the options.

I got a Quote for $400 to degas and then come back and regas from mobile guy.

He said best practice is to flush, but I am getting mixed info reading, some saying you shouldn't flush through dryer or TX and that channels are very small in the compressor so while flush may push through you may pack grime / dust tighter in other channels that will dislodge later, and that flush should really just be done after the TX on evaporator and lines between that and pump. The mechanical replacement is supposed to be a pain, but known and with some patience should be ok, still trying to figure out how AC works and what is ok in terms of opening up and what you need to do after.

Seems that if lines capped or not open too long, its not an issue. Also with D4 its got a clutch so I think you can pull the fuse to ensure it doesn't t get turned on while driving to auto shop to get regassed. They should vacuum before degassing, I think this helps boil any any moisture out of the desiccant in the dryer.

In the UK everything rusts but we don't really have that issue her unless living right on cost, so I figure less likely to develop leaks, so replacing condenser in UK is probably a no brainer, but everything more expensive here, so questioning whether I really need to replace the condenser. I am thinking about replacing the Dryer though can get delivered with seals for ~$200 Dryer - JRJ500020P1 - OEM | Rimmer Bros