Hi eddielines, did you measure the voltage on both studs on the circuit Breaker.
Also, have you had a dead short at any time, if so, and if you can use a soldering iron, there is an easy fix.
BTW, I will be up an running by the end of the week.
Looking for some advice on my Traxide dual battery system.
Have a traxide DT90 in my D4 for about 6 years and setup has worked really well for me, just running a fridge.
Just found that it appears not to be working at minute and going camping at weekend, wanted to check I am not missing something.
When I start car, cranking battery reads as 14+ V auxiliary stays at 12.x V.
If I connect ctex charger to either battery, cranking or auxiliary, only the voltage on that batter jumps to charging voltage.
The lights on switch module show that isolator is getting power and charging.
The power at Anderson at back to fridge reads same voltage as Auxiliary battery.
The voltage across the circuit breaker does not drop and and has no resistance indicating it's not that.
Does this mean that the relay in the isolator is not closing / working ? Anything else I can check to diagnose ?
Website is saying away on leave and back in Sept, trying to see if it's an issue I can resolve.
TIA
2010 Discovery 4 3.0L TDV6 ~180K
Hi eddielines, did you measure the voltage on both studs on the circuit Breaker.
Also, have you had a dead short at any time, if so, and if you can use a soldering iron, there is an easy fix.
BTW, I will be up an running by the end of the week.
Hi
I did measure voltage on both studs on circuit breaker. They measure same as Auxiliary battery.
No dead short that I am aware of, but car has been in with Indy a couple of times.
I can use and have a soldering Iron.
2010 Discovery 4 3.0L TDV6 ~180K
OK, then remove the isolator and take the cover off the rear.
Inside you will see 4 screws in the corners of the PCB.
Undo the short lead at the Circuit Breaker and then remove the 4 screws.
Take the PCB out and have a look at the underside of the PCB, at the spot where the terminals of the relays are soldered to the PCB.
Have a close look and you will probably see that two of the terminals ( one for each relay ) have dry solder joints.
This can happen with a dead short.
Simply resolder the two terminals and the isolator should work again.
Let me know how you go.
Thanks, will do after work tonight.
The back of the isolator doesn't have screws, Will it clip out if I use a fine screwdriver to lever ?
2010 Discovery 4 3.0L TDV6 ~180K
Sorry I might be misinterpreting something, the isolator is just a sealed black box like the pic, but there is no fuse or circuit breaker on the side of the isolator, it's a separate tan coloured box for the circuit breaker which does have 4 screws on the back, I'll take a picture tonight when I get home
2010 Discovery 4 3.0L TDV6 ~180K
Sorry, ignore above screws are under double sided tape. I am an idiot.
2010 Discovery 4 3.0L TDV6 ~180K
Ok, as per photo there's clearly been a short, can't for the life of me can think of when this would have happened, haven't camped and used fridge since high country at easter, been daily driver since.
I've cleaned up flux as best I could and soldered the relay pin highlighted in red.
I'll report back in a week or so to close out thread if no other issues, all working now again.
Thanks drivesafe for you support
2010 Discovery 4 3.0L TDV6 ~180K
Hi again, if you still have the isolator PCB out, the relay pin diagonally opposite the one you have circled, probably needs resoldering as well.
But first try cleaning the flux off using Turps.
Turps will not harm anything and with a stiff brush, will dissolve the flux so you can see the solder joint better.
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