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Thread: D4 a/c not cooling

  1. #41
    BradC is offline Super Moderator
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    I struggle to see that myself. Moisture generally manifests by freezing in the txv/orifice tube. That would show as a high high side and low low side. Still, change the dryer and see what happens.

    Generally a low high side and high low side would indicate a compressor that isn't compressing.
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  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by BradC View Post

    Generally a low high side and high low side would indicate a compressor that isn't compressing.
    I presume these readings are taken while the compressor is operating?

    Could be faulty or unloaded.

    Or the internal high pressure relief valve has opened,but i don't think they use them in auto air compressors?

    Like Brad said,moisture generally blocks off the TX,and can cause other issues.
    Very often if the dryer is blocked,a temperature TD is evident across the dryer,even frost maybe seen on the downstream side.(of the drier).
    And low side pressures are very low.The high side maybe high,or it could be lower than normal,as the Compressor is doing no work,depending on the system characteristics.

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    How have you tested the pressures?

  4. #44
    BradC is offline Super Moderator
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    There's only one real way to test them, which is at the service valves. The low side is between the evap and the compressor and the high side is between the dryer and the txv in the same block as the high side pressure sensor. There are no service valves on the compressor on these (unlike my old volvos which made diagnostics a doddle).
    MY08 D3 - The Antichrist - "Permagrimace". Turn the key and play the "will it get me home again" lottery.

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    That means that a blocked dryer could cause the high side to be low. The flow diagrams that I looked at didn't identify the service valve locations and I assumed that the valves were on the compressor inlet and outlets.
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  6. #46
    BradC is offline Super Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graeme View Post
    That means that a blocked dryer could cause the high side to be low. The flow diagrams that I looked at didn't identify the service valve locations and I assumed that the valves were on the compressor inlet and outlets.
    They aren't. If you have a look under the bonnet, the high side valve is on the passenger side adjacent the battery box in the pipework between the condenser/dryer and the bulkhead where it passes through to the TXV (which is somewhere inside the dashboard. Pretty much the point they started with and then built the car around).
    MY08 D3 - The Antichrist - "Permagrimace". Turn the key and play the "will it get me home again" lottery.

  7. #47
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    That sounds familiar. The vehicle is at my son's.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graeme View Post
    That means that a blocked dryer could cause the high side to be low. The flow diagrams that I looked at didn't identify the service valve locations and I assumed that the valves were on the compressor inlet and outlets.
    Correct,i was assuming at the compressor as well.
    When it is running is there any Temp difference on the inlet and outlet pipes of the drier.If so that is a sure indication it is partially blocked.
    If not it can still be partially blocked,surprisingly.

  9. #49
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    Only the temperature of the pipes at the valves was checked, where one might have been slightly cooler than ambient.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

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    The saga continues...

    New condenser c/w dryer fitted and eventually regassed with Hychill. Cooling well and good pressures at idle but then the compressor appeared to cut out when engine revs were increased. No DTCs and the clutch is engaged. The mechaninc doing the regassing couldn't suggest a cause. Driving home, the a/c mostly didn't cool at all, but did for a short while after overtaking a truck.

    Current indication is that powering the compressor's valve is now having no effect, presumably blocked at the valve or inside the compressor causing almost nil increase in pressure when power is applied. The resistance between the supply voltage and return pins at the connector next to the battery is 12 ohms which seems appropriate and confirms no broken wires. A clicking sound can be heard coming from the vicinity of the valve when applying 12V and earth to the pins, but only a couple of psi increase from the static 93.4 psi when the engine is running. Thus it appears that the compressor will have to be removed or at least the valve replaced if access is possible. Furthermore, it seems that I've damaged the ATC module as now there is only an extremely small duty cycle on the supply wire rather than the earlier nearly 100%.

    I'm inclined to provide 12V to the valve and go for a test drive to see if the compressor again even intermittenty builds pressure before embarking on replacing the ATC and removing the compressor, which is quite a task.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

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