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Thread: Anderson plug install for trailers

  1. 2nd January 2008, 10:06 AM #1
    muppo
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    Anderson plug install for trailers

    This is how I ran the cable to the rear of the D3 for charging my Campertrailer batteries when towing.
    Apologies for the poor quality of some of the photos because I didn't download them untill much later after the install, but you'll get the drift of what I have done.

    Before you start raise vehicle to maximum height. Caution never work under the vehicle when fully extended, work from around the vehicle.

    Step one.
    Remove the spare wheel.


    Step two.
    Join two yellow tongues together (found in chipboard flooring, also available at electrical wholesalers)


    Step three.
    Feed yellow tongue through chassis rail hole on right hand side behind front wheel next to height sensor. You may have to twist the tongue around to get it through the chassis rail.



    Step four.
    Fish out tongue with coat hanger throught hole in rear of RHS chassis rail next to rear bumper bar. Now tape cable to tongue and pull cable through to rear.


    Step five.
    Feed tongue back through same rear hole and pass tongue across to access hole behind factory trailer plugs.

    Hole behind factory trailer plugs.


    Step six.
    Feed cable ends through side holes in trailer plug compartment area to your desired trailer type connector.


    Step seven.
    Feed cable up next to brake lines and behind heat sheilds into engine bay and cable tie neatly making sure cable stays clear of all moving parts.


    Cable appears in engine bay next to Aux battery box. I have lost some photos due to XD card failure but it should be easy enough to follow. If anyone needs more photos or info, just ask.

    The cable I have used may confuse people because its actually a 10mm2 flexible 240volt cable. I have intentionly left photos out because this cable is very thick and a special cable that is exspensive to buy so I wouldn't reccomend it. I have used this cable for a dual purpose. I have sleaved the earth cable with blue heat shrink and used it for my electric brakes through a Anderson connector mounted on a custom bracket, but since I have changed my mind and will now remove the factory UK Spec trailer plug and place both the brake and battery charging Anderson connectors on a new bracket. I'll post this photo when I've completed it.

    Hopefully this will help anyone thinking of doing this install themself. I would think if you had no experience in this field it would take you between 1 and 2 hrs to complete.

    Cheers Muppo.
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  2. 2nd January 2008, 10:17 AM #2
    Blknight.aus's Avatar
    Blknight.aus
    Blknight.aus is offline RoverLord Vendor
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    as an additional...

    thats pretty much how I route the cables but Instead of the yellowtongue I use a lenght of fencing type wire as the grabber (I also put them into a bit of 13mm garden hose to help prevent internal chassis chafing)


    take a length of wire 3 times the length that you want to run fold it in half and put a phillips head screwdriver in the fold, put the 2 ends in your drill and pulling it tight give the drill a hit this will tension and twist the wires together making them into a long spiral.

    you dont need to use the drill and can make one up on the side of the road if you have to by sliding a ring spanner over the ends of the wire then tying them to another screwdriver then just pull back on the spanner and twist the screwdriver around.
    Dave

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  3. 5th January 2008, 04:47 PM #3
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    Bushwanderer
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    Hi Muppo,
    Have you had a chance to fit the Anderson plug yet (or are you, like most of us, still trying to recover from the Christmas chaos)?
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  4. 7th January 2008, 03:00 PM #4
    muppo
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    Not yet, but might try one night during the week or on Saturday!
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  5. 29th February 2008, 06:54 PM #5
    Timj
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    Hi guys,

    Hopefully someone can help me here. I am really struggling with getting the yellow plastic to go through the chassis rail. There is one spot around the rear driveshafts where the chassis actually splits into two and there is a fairly sharp s bend and a narrowing of the rail. How is a fairly stiff piece of plastic supposed to get past that? I am trying to run some cable through to get some power points in the boot and to charge a third battery in the trailer. I could not see it being any easier to try and get the cables through inside the cabin as a lot of clipped plastic has to be levered up and that really worries me when I think about trying not to damage it.

    At the moment I'm stuffed if I can work out how to do it !

    Tim.
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  6. 2nd March 2008, 10:17 AM #6
    muppo
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    Tim, try twisting the yellow tongue around as you push it back and forward untill it passes the hard part. It will go through!
    The cable I pulled through there is 12mm in diameter.
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