In response to your detail questions: Dunno! That's outside my current level of expertise!
And, like Caver said, when you get the park-brake-needs-cleaning/adjustment-squeal, you'll know it!
 ChatterBox
					
					
						ChatterBox
					
					
                                        
					
					
						In response to your detail questions: Dunno! That's outside my current level of expertise!
And, like Caver said, when you get the park-brake-needs-cleaning/adjustment-squeal, you'll know it!
There is a conventional mechanical/cable operated drum in the centre of each rear wheel The other end of the cable is near the hand brake lever. In the same place there is the motor to pull it against some sort of ratchet/one way system to hold it without power or assistance.
So the unpowered situation is a conventional mechanical handbrake with no way to release it (as that is a powered event). Which is why there is a section in the manual to show how you pull off the cover beside the lever and reach in with some tool in the tool kit and release it. This is a one time operation which disconnects the cable from the activator and requires "dealer servicing" to fix.
If the brake engages I would have as much faith in it holding as any other mechanical system. In fact, it is likely better and it will increase the tension if it detects creep. This is again a powered operation, but I would expect it to work with the engine off, keys out, doors locked, etc.
Cheers, Steve
 Swaggie
					
					
						Swaggie
					
					
						There are 2 cables - 1 from each wheel to a gbox that pulls the 2 cables together using a worm-type drive. The emergency release cable is a 3rd cable that separates the 2 that are linked together in the worm-drive box. The 1st application of the EPB after the emergency cable has been used causes the 2 wheel cables to be reconnected, but does not apply the EPB, so that the EPB is functional again. No dealer intervention is necessary, according to the WSM
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
Here's a picture of the motor assembly on cut away creations. The module sits above the rear diff.

No idea how it works, but I broke the switchfor goodness sake. Broke it yesterday (no idea how that happened) and fixed to day. Good to know it wasn't anything I did!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamo
If you get mud in it it makes an horrendous shrieking noise that causes all heads within about a 500m radius to turn and look! You then need it cleaned out (before it implodes)!
Hey All,
I have got the shriek you have discussed, after a trip to the Pilbara. Has been there for over a week now and doesn't seem like it will self clear. None of the threads so far have mentioned what to do about it. Do I attack the hubs with the hose, or is it more like a back to Land Rover job? If so maybe warranty? surely My "Most Awarded 4WD in the World" cand handle a bit of gravel.
Subaru were doing it in the 80's, my brumby had "Hill hold" where if you stopped on a hill with your foot on the brakes and the clutch then you could release the brake pedal and the car would hold until the clutch was released to a preset position which was adjustable under the bonnet.
It was a fantastic trinket that took ages for me to get my head around but once I did I wished Id had it on all my cars.
My partner's Subaru Sports Wagon (1990?) had it, so the Japanese have already been there.
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