Thread: Fact or fiction

With the brakes.. I'd say its normal

I'm on my 3rd front set on my 2004 Commodore SS and just hit 100k.. must be crap steel or something. My last car I had was a Honda Legend 1994 and my fronts lasted about 180k's both cars with same type of driving

has me beat why...

Camo

The wheel alignment is a point of confusion. The dealers will all quote LR's advice, which is that the car's EAS must be put into a 'special' set state prior to alignment. There is indeed such a state, and it can only be accessed via TestBook (ie by a dealer), so that much is true.

However, a number of people have used independents, who have simply done the alignment with the car at the std height setting and they've had no out-of-the-ordinary wear issues.

If your car is out of alignment due to worn bushes, control arms etc, the alignment should be covered by warranty, so I guess the choice would be to use the dealer. Similarly if you're worried about subsequent problems with said parts.

OUt-of-warranty or out-of-range of a dealer, well it's not rocket-science, so as long as you have the correct figures to work from .....

Re the brake rotors, I've heard similar stories from some of the US owners - apparently you _can_ skim them, but only once, and some seem to have much higher wear than others?

Cheers,

Gordon

Originally Posted by Camo

With the brakes.. I'd say its normal

I'm on my 3rd front set on my 2004 Commodore SS and just hit 100k.. must be crap steel or something. My last car I had was a Honda Legend 1994 and my fronts lasted about 180k's both cars with same type of driving

has me beat why...

Camo

Nothing to do with crap material with the brakes , Its all to do with going away from asbestos in the brake pads for obvious reasons (health)

With out asbestos the heat transfer is very hard on the rotors which need either machining or replacing more often

Originally Posted by rangieman

Nothing to do with crap material with the brakes , Its all to do with going away from asbestos in the brake pads for obvious reasons (health)

With out asbestos the heat transfer is very hard on the rotors which need either machining or replacing more often

I know what you mean.. but I ran normal pads on the Honda(non-asbestos)from supercrap and soft ones on the SS(from supercrap aswell).. still crap!.. wish I got more k's out of them

Only like 120 bucks to replace the fronts.. easier than machining

Camo

Originally Posted by Camo

I know what you mean.. but I ran normal pads on the Honda(non-asbestos)from supercrap and soft ones on the SS(from supercrap aswell).. still crap!.. wish I got more k's out of them

Only like 120 bucks to replace the fronts.. easier than machining

Camo

With the ss try and get the police pads if you can
or fit premium pads

My wifes ford had brake shudder which is common for most new cars with out asbestos in the pads
I fitted premium pads and in 500 ks no shudder

Originally Posted by Camo

With the brakes.. I'd say its normal

I'm on my 3rd front set on my 2004 Commodore SS and just hit 100k.. must be crap steel or something. My last car I had was a Honda Legend 1994 and my fronts lasted about 180k's both cars with same type of driving

has me beat why...

Camo

3rd set?? My 2002 VY Commodore S has 120K and about to get the rotors machined for the first time - third set of pads tho.

48000K service plus rear pads and rotors cost $1500, a heck of a lot dearer than Commodores that's for sure!

Originally Posted by ghoti

1) Brake Replacements.
Had to have front disc pads and rotors replaced at 36K service, then the rears at 48K. Dealer says this is normal. I've never replaced rotors in cars, doing at least 150K in each. What is the expected life of rotors in a Disco that is basically not used offroad?

Pads yes they go quick. Rotors should only need machining, (possibly over servicing?) I even asked them not to machine mine till next time; I'm on 53K.

Originally Posted by ghoti

2) Wheel Aligment.
Dealer says air suspension need to sbe dealer-set in "Alignment mode" before aligning, and reset to normal afterwards. Tyre shops say thats rubbish. Both have a vested interest. Who is right?

True; but you can risk getting it done without having it set it just depends where the the auto leveling settles before alignment is done. Just more accurate if set before hand.

You really only need the car put into the setting mode if there's been some work done on the suspension or it's had bush settle. For normal alignments its not that necessary.