Thread: Brake pad replacement cost

Just checked the price out for pads for a d3 they cost 40 pounds and 33 pounds for ferodo pads from a uk supplier. Thats about $100 and $90 for parts what are they doing too warrant that much extra. I'd try ringing MR Automotive or Khor House of Rover to see if they are doing work on d3's yet and ask them for a qoute if they are. Hope you can get it sorted for a more reasonable price as that seems like the old we can charge what we like as they must have the money to drive a rover.

My experience with the local dealer is that they use brake pads as a nice little earner, they usually ring up in the afternoon and say "we've discovered your pads are low, we recommend that you replace them as they won't make it to the next service"
If you say OK they replace the pads and charge you and you never see the old ones so you've got no idea how much wear they had. If you say no, don't replace them then they're covered should they actually wear out and bugger the disks.
Of course a cynic would say that if you asked to see the old pads they could bring you a well worn set that they had prepared earlier
When I get that paranoid I'll start writing on the back of the pads with a paint pen....

I'd also like to point out that the local Ford dealer used to replace the pads on my former work Falcon with alarming regularity also but since I wasn't paying I didn't care much.

Regards,
Tote

Originally Posted by dhard

I would hate too think that they've made pad changing anymore time consuming than 15-20min a wheel. i.e car up on hoist wheels off /disconnect pad wear sensor if applicable/Pins out that hold pads in place/ new pads in with smear of high temp anti seize compound on the back/put pins back in and put wheel back on. Surely they haven't made it more complex than this.

Yep. The later cars use a totally different (sliding) calliper . No longer is it a mere pull pins, remove pads job. Fewer pistons in the calliper, too.

Originally Posted by p38arover

Yep. The later cars use a totally different (sliding) calliper . No longer is it a mere pull pins, remove pads job. Fewer pistons in the calliper, too.

Just looked at the link you put up that looks just as easy in fact might even be slightly easier as you can get at the pistons easier to spread them apart for the new pad width. I'm gald he changed those discs they were pretty fubar.

Got a second price a third cheaper than LR. LR have since agreed to better it to keep my business. Worth shopping around.

The D3 and RRS etc have very short pad and rotor life. The price would've included rotors and sensors, and is about right for genuine parts. Aftermarket repairers using non OE bits for these vehicles will still have to replace the genuine wear sensors etc anyway. I did a RRS lately, and at 58K it needed rotors, pads and sensors. I bought genuine parts for it at the insistence of the owner, and they were all up around $860.00 The other $150 odd was labour , fluid change and picking up and dropping off the vehicle.

I don't think 1K to replace ALL of the brake components on a $100,000 vehicle is over the top, it's just that it has to be done sooner than it should!

You guys ought to price a set of rotors and pads for a X5 or a Toureg etc, LR is pretty cheap by comparison

JC

Originally Posted by justinc

I did a RRS lately, and at 58K it needed rotors, pads and sensors. I bought genuine parts for it at the insistence of the owner, and they were all up around $860.00 The other $150 odd was labour , fluid change and picking up and dropping off the vehicle.

The price was pads only although I suspect the rotors may need machining. What's the sensor do? I was asked by the dealer if the light was on (which it isn't) so he was satisfied the sensor didn't need replacing.

Originally Posted by WhiteD3

The price was pads only although I suspect the rotors may need machining. What's the sensor do? I was asked by the dealer if the light was on (which it isn't) so he was satisfied the sensor didn't need replacing.

Pads only????
I wouldn't machine these rotors either, they are a sacrificial rotor, and when they wear down with 2 pad changes, they are allready on Min thickness. After the first pad change, (Around 30K) you SHOULD get to the next set of pads before the rotors need changing. Unless they are extremely grooved or uneven, machining them only shortens their life span.
The pad Sensors set off the warning lamp , but be VERY careful removing them from the old pads, as they sometimes disintegrate anyway! They are predominately plastic, and you know how plastic gets around HEAT
I just quote on fitting them anyway, that way if I do get them out with out damage etc, then the bill is less

JC

JC