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Thread: Second battery connection advice

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    Melbourne, Vic
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    At the moment I'd be looking to run
    2 x DVD units (plugged into 12v sockets)
    1 x UHF. Would look to wire this via a socket connection (won't unplug this often) so won't be removing wires from the fuse box.
    Maybe allow in the future to run 1 or 2 12v sockets to the rear or perhaps another anderson plug if the cable load allows.

    I don't think I'd be removing anything regularly from the fuse box and generally maximum load at any time would be the UHF and 2 or 3 other devices.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    As far as the UHF goes, the 30 amp PowerPoles are actually the standard connection system for Ham Radio set ups.

    Give me a day or two and I’ll take some pictures and post them up.

    These PowerPoles are the best thing for power connects to come along in a long time and can be used for heaps of applications and I’m finding new uses for them all the time.

    I do a lot of testing and have now got a huge range of devices wired up with these plugs and it saves me loads of time when connecting and disconnect test gear and devices.

    I’m actually in the process of manufacturing a PowerPole replacement for cigarette power socket, which will ( with some rewiring of the vehicle ) give a 30 amp replacement for the 10 amp cigarette socket, and these devices will have a microprocessor controlling a user selectable voltage cut-out, so you won’t have to worry about flattening your batteries.

    This will make using air compressors and medium sized inverters a lot easier.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by WhiteD3 View Post
    As Caver says, the battery fits perfectly, just need to "modify" the LR battery bracket. Takes 5 minutes.

    What sort of modification are we talking about? How has the amp-tech perfomed and approximate cost?

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ashes View Post
    What sort of modification are we talking about? How has the amp-tech performed and approximate cost?
    Re the bracket; from memory you need to straighten out one leg of the bracket and rebend it. Literally a 5 mine job with a vice and hammer.

    The D48 was $179 in Brisbane, has a 2 year warranty, so even if it only lasts 3 years its cheeeeaap. Performance has been good but then I don't run a fridge on it, just a UHF and when camping, a sleep aepnea machine, light, and the kid's Nintendo DS'.

  5. #15
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  6. #16
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    Nov 2007
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    Got it!! Thanks heaps for the pics. Explains it beautifully.

  7. #17
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    Feb 2007
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    Before you modify the bracket, spend a minute or so thinking about the bolts. Due to the placement of the encapsulated thread in the floor of the battery compartment on the engine side, the bolt tab on the bracket needs to be higher on this side than on the guard side.

    In the third pic you'll see I've used two large nuts as spacers on the guard side.

    You can sort of see the diff in bolt head heights in the second pic I posted.

    You'll see what I mean when you do it.

    Also (and I just remembered this), due to the way the batt compartment lid slopes down towards the front of the car, it's a squeeze getting a terminal clamp on the front post; hence why I've used the marine terminals on the batt. I think this is a better way to do it anyway and the batt came with the nyloc nuts fitted.

  8. #18
    norto Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post
    As far as the UHF goes, the 30 amp PowerPoles are actually the standard connection system for Ham Radio set ups.

    Give me a day or two and I’ll take some pictures and post them up.

    These PowerPoles are the best thing for power connects to come along in a long time and can be used for heaps of applications and I’m finding new uses for them all the time.

    I do a lot of testing and have now got a huge range of devices wired up with these plugs and it saves me loads of time when connecting and disconnect test gear and devices.

    I’m actually in the process of manufacturing a PowerPole replacement for cigarette power socket, which will ( with some rewiring of the vehicle ) give a 30 amp replacement for the 10 amp cigarette socket, and these devices will have a microprocessor controlling a user selectable voltage cut-out, so you won’t have to worry about flattening your batteries.

    This will make using air compressors and medium sized inverters a lot easier.
    Drivesafe
    I was talking to "Ghosta" and he said........

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
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    Canberra
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    Thanks for all the advice team.

    Tonight I finished my dual battery system. I installed the traxide jobby and had the auto-elec run the cable to the rear when he did the trailer brake controller. I fitted a Varta battery and as you can imagine I was pretty careful using the grinder on a car less than 2 months old. I also installed an Anderson plug under the bonnet for my compressor.

    For the power in the luggage compartment, I ran the cable from the Anderson plug up into the LH rear tail light gland to a fuse panel I fitted where the hitch normally goes. I'm not a fan of permanent fittings in the rear, so I used a couple of hella/cigarette combos that live under the rear seats and I pull them out when I need to connect the fridges.

    A few pictures attached.

    Cheers

    Bob
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #20
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    Nov 2007
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    Done as well

    Connected the battery to a fuse box under the drivers seat and from that have run the UHF and wired in 2 12v sockets for the 2nd row passengers.

    Also connected up an Anderson plug from the 2nd battery so I have access to power in the bonnet without having to remove the battery cover or use terminal clamps.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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