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Thread: upgrade

  1. #1
    johnbmcgregor Guest

    upgrade

    Iam considering upgrading from D1 Td to a series 3. Looking at a 2005 model.
    were there any major design proplems with this year model. Should i be looking at say 2006,2007. Diesel of petrol?
    Appreciate any advise.
    John

  2. #2
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    Everyone will have a say here LOL !

    I'd say buy a 4.0 petrol . ( Incoming ! Duck ! )

    As for "year" , well that's a price point for you to decide
    I don't know what's involved in getting a vehicle's repair
    history from LRA . No doubt you will be helped by members
    here ..... they're a good bunch ( usually )

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Neil P View Post
    I'd say buy a 4.0 petrol . ( Incoming ! Duck ! )
    I am with you on this Neil........ *dodge*

    John, the guys here will have plenty advice, on what to look for and what to avoid...... You won't regret buying a D3. There are also numerous threads out there already on this topic, so have a look at those….. I am a big fan of the petrol, but there are more fans out there of the diesel….. That choice, and that of year model will more than likely come down to price.

    I believe there were some issues with the early D3s, but these should all have been sorted, I would be looking for evidence of this. If you are looking at an 05, it will more than likely be out of warranty, so look for evidence that a “pre-expiry” check, a lot of more knowledgeable owners will have had that done……..

    At some point they changed the standard spec on the SE models, leather as standard and a few other things which makes a later model more desirable…….

    Also look into an extended warranty….. the D3s are complex vehicles, and if things do go wrong it could be pricey (there is a recent thread debating this)…….

    Being relatively new to D3s, I can’t tell you too much on the technical front, but no doubt others will jump in here!

  4. #4
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    Petrol 4.0 litre is OK 2.7 diesel is better but you pay more. V8 has the same fuel economy as the 4.0 litre and is more fun.

    Get a leter model if you can afford in MY 07 onwards are better more of the old part numbers are gone.
    Get one in warranty and go for the extended warranty (expensive but good insurance in case something major goes wrong)

  5. #5
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    Coil spring models as standard are pretty ordinary off road due to average ground clearance - not much better than my Freelander.

    So go the air suspension models or consider a bit of a lift for a D3 coiler.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  6. #6
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    if you want limited slip diff, make sure it's already fitted.

    Also, buy a 7 seater, I believe the 5 seaters are harder to sell.

  7. #7
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    Don't the 2.7TD models need the body removed to replace the turbo?

    If so - I would either stay away from that model or make sure the turbo is in A1 condition.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by isuzurover View Post
    Don't the 2.7TD models need the body removed to replace the turbo?
    First I have heard of this, but I am no expert....... tis these sorts of things that make the extended warranty important.......

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by isuzurover View Post
    Don't the 2.7TD models need the body removed to replace the turbo?
    Removed from what? There is no separate chassis. Do you mean remove the engine to replace the turbo?

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  10. #10
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    D3 has a composite chassis: a ladder chassis and the body has a monocoque chassis bolted together.





    You undo some connectors and lift one off the other. Not too difficult. But the dealers have worked out how to replace the turbo without lifting the body.

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