Thread: Got my car dirty - Freelander to the rescue

Couldn't agree more. I've had mine for nearly a year and I'm still not aware of everything it can do, everything I 've done with it it's just lapped up without fuss. The 2 LRE days I've done have been a big learning experience but I just know there's more to it than that.

SWMBO spends all her time watching the 4x4 screen on these events "oooh, we must be nearly stuck, both the padlocks have gone red !!"

Originally Posted by stig0000

not been harsh but that looked very easy to stradle them ruts well at least its been used

I was actually lucky I went into the ruts - on either side of them it is deep mud that I sank up to me knees in and nearly lost my shoes - the whole thing was just one car length though caused on a slight dip in the road that cause the 2" deep water to pool.

Yes am in a club.

Garry

Originally Posted by garrycol

So where can I find out what actually happens in the vehicle when each of the Terrain Response settings are selected

Anyone know where I can find this information and is there a visual display that shows you are in super extended offroad mode. The dash display indicates when you have gone into extended offroad mode but other than a chime there does not seem to be anything to indicate the super extended mode on the dash.

Garry

There's a lot more to learn (and master) in the T5 vehicles than the FL1 or D2. The TC + TR, when used correctly is far superior, but can also get you into a lot more trouble if you don't use it correctly! And yes, the std road tyres are pretty lame in that kind of terrain. First thing to change

This was after a 30cm clay pit that I accidently drove into - both driver-side wheels were submerged in thick, goo-ey clay. I still managed to drive out.



Whenever you change the TR setting (eg from mud/ruts to rock crawl) the DSC will re-activate, and the car will drop from extended or emergency profile to normal off-road height. You probably couldn't exceed 2700 rpm due to the DSC being on.

If you're stuck by yourself, bottomed out, no gear and you're not sure what to do:

1 get out immediately and have a look - bit of digging etc.,
2 switch to rock/crawl (most aggressive TR setting),
3 switch off DSC,
4 select reverse and try to drive out with a bit of steering lock on, or
5 rock between drive and reverse

Do it in that order and do not change the TR setting again. If at any stage the car goes into extended mode, stop progress, and with hard lock on (to stop the front wheels from sinking) put it into emergency height and resume rocking/reversing.

Usually works
Cheers,

Gordon

Thanks Gordon,

As I said I went in with Mud Ruts and high range - mainly because it was flat and didn't want to spin the wheels too much and dig in - probably should have been a bit faster.

When I got stuck I immediately tried reverse but no luck - I went to super high still in mud ruts and and low range and no luck - went back to high range left it in gear and hoped out of the car - crossed wheels happily spinning with not sign of TC cutting in but I assumed revs (1000rpm were too low). I dug out the tyres and stuffed sticks rocks and leaves under them - when I got back in I went to rock crawl and there clearly was a difference - as you said more aggressive but no move even when trying to rock back and forth and turning the front wheels back and forth. Grass and sand settings had no real impact. As I said I new about turning DSC off but forgot all about it . As you indicated this is what most likely restricted engine revs and in turn prevented TC from working correctly.

Anyway - a great learning exercise.

Thanks to everyone for the pointers.

Garry

Originally Posted by garrycol

I was actually lucky I went into the ruts - on either side of them it is deep mud that I sank up to me knees in and nearly lost my shoes - the whole thing was just one car length though caused on a slight dip in the road that cause the 2" deep water to pool.

Yes am in a club.

Garry

ohhh i hate that, think its hard and your feet sink,

Forgot to mention - you really should _always_ be in low range. The systems are calibrated to work best in that mode, and the wheel travel (articulation) is much greater due to the cross-link valves being activated.

Cheers,

Gordon

Originally Posted by gghaggis

Forgot to mention - you really should _always_ be in low range. The systems are calibrated to work best in that mode, and the wheel travel (articulation) is much greater due to the cross-link valves being activated.

Cheers,

Gordon

Well there you go - in the situation I was in, if you were in a D1 or D2 or even my 101 you would not go into low range as there is a big chance of just getting wheel spin and digging in.

I didn't know about the above - didn't read that in the manual however I did try low range when prompted by the dash display when I selected rock crawl - didn't seem to do a lot.

By posting this up - I have certainly learnt a lot of other little tricks.

It is a shame you cannot manually select extended mode (albiet with restrictions) as to go into that mode after you have bellied out and come to a stop (and lost momentum) is often all too late.

Thanks

Garry