Engine replacement RRS Supercharged

**p38arover** · 27th May 2011, 06:24 PM

Originally Posted by Celtoid

Hey Ron B,

Did you actually mean that it only took an hour to get the body off, or did me and some other folks mis-read your intent.

Stig0000 is adament that it takes 3 - 4 to get the body off.

Cheers,

Kev.

Yep. I was there for all of it and helped a bit. Brad Pollard did most of the work and Damo (also from this forum) and I looked useful.

OK, my timing might have been out but not by more than 30 minutes.

Don't forget that as the engine had been partially stripped, i.e., heads, supercharger, exhaust manifolds, heat shields, aircon, etc., off. we only had to unbolt the body, disconnect the steering and gear selector, undo the brake lines, remove the wheel arch liners (we didn't remove the wheels), remove front and rear bumpers, remove front grille, front slam panel moulding, headlights (really quick), left rear taillight (to unplug park sensors), etc.

Admittedly, a lot of that stuff previously removed wouldn't have had to have been removed if it had been known the engine would need to be replaced.

**Scouse** · 27th May 2011, 06:31 PM

Damo too - gee, they are hard up for workers if they need Damo & Ron !!

**Celtoid** · 30th May 2011, 12:40 PM

Originally Posted by p38arover

That's today's project. Last night I helped (very little!) Brad Pollard remove the body from a Sport. Today we'll pull the engine and fit a new one.

The original engine had an overheat and lightly seized a piston with consequent liner slip.

'Tis amazing how well designed the Sport is for removal of the grille, headlights, front apron, tailights (to unplug the rear bumper park sensors), etc.

Something for Sport owners. Remove the lower screws at the rear of the rear wheel arches and grease them. They rust. Ditto with the two front body mount bolts (the RH one requires removal of the oil cooler - if fitted on a standard RRS - that is in front of the RH wheel). Also, the rear of the front wheel arch liners hides a collection of leaves and crap that could accumulate and cause corrosion issues.

Hey Ron,

Forgot to ask out of interest sake, how did the motor get cooked in the first place......blown cooling hose?...no indicator lights, etc?

...and why did he opt for an out-of-the-container replacement verses a rebuild?

Cheers,

Kev.

**isuzurover** · 14th July 2011, 11:19 AM

Certainly is an easy way to do any work on one!

Originally Posted by Celtoid

Forgot to ask out of interest sake, how did the motor get cooked in the first place......

I'm interested in this one too...

**p38arover** · 14th July 2011, 12:54 PM

I don't know how he cooked the engine. A rebuild wasn't available in Australia nor was a short motor available from the UK so a long motor was the only choice.

**abaddonxi** · 14th July 2011, 02:44 PM

Originally Posted by Celtoid

Hey Ron,

Forgot to ask out of interest sake, how did the motor get cooked in the first place......blown cooling hose?...no indicator lights, etc?

...and why did he opt for an out-of-the-container replacement verses a rebuild?

Cheers,

Kev.

Never realised that was a possibility.

Guess it won't be just at rego time that I pay attention to blown indicator lamps.

**Celtoid** · 14th July 2011, 06:03 PM

Originally Posted by p38arover

I don't know how he cooked the engine. A rebuild wasn't available in Australia nor was a short motor available from the UK so a long motor was the only choice.

Thanks mate,

Turns out my D4 has just joined the Bleeding Heart Valve AKA turbo-charger club........

No smoke, no rough running, no marks on the garage floor, no oil leakage reported (on the gauge)....but a tiny oil drip had 'eaten' a roll bar bushing causing a squeak which I got LR to look at....

Go figure.....

But at least they were honest.

Thread: Engine replacement RRS Supercharged

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