60,000km Service RRS 2.7

As the only servicing requirement at 60,000km is the oil and filter change and that has been done I am now slowly working through the other items on my list.

Even though the air filter is not due until 72000km I decided to have a look at it today - absolutely chock a block full of fine dust so changed. When I opened the top of the air box I found a razor blade in the bottom of the overflow section so someone has been in there before me - the filter was a land rover item so I do not know whether it has previously been changed.

The 72,000km interval is clearly too much so I would suggest 48,000km or maybe 60,000km for a town car.

Next is the fuel filter.

Now a question - the handbook indicates that when the fuel filter is changed you need to go up to the bleed valve with the lift pump running to purge the system of air.

Do you actually have to do this?? or will the lift pump just push any air straight through the system into the engine??

Ean Austral - you recently changed your filter - did you purge or just let the lift pump run for a while?

Thanks

Garry

Hi Garry,
When I changed mine I just turned the ignition on for a minute twice to purge the system through, the car started fine after that. You can here the pitch of the pump change as the fuel goes through the system, when the pitch returns to a steady state your done.
Make sure you get the pipes back on the right connections if you get this wrong the engine won't start, it is then I imagine a very diesely job to get them off and change them. This was good advice I got when doing this job.
Sounds like you are going well.

Thanks for that - I assume that the lift pump would force the fuel and air through the system and then back to the tank via the fuel return.

Cheers Garry

Quote:

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Originally Posted by garrycol

As the only servicing requirement at 60,000km is the oil and filter change and that has been done I am now slowly working through the other items on my list.

Even though the air filter is not due until 72000km I decided to have a look at it today - absolutely chock a block full of fine dust so changed. When I opened the top of the air box I found a razor blade in the bottom of the overflow section so someone has been in there before me - the filter was a land rover item so I do not know whether it has previously been changed.

The 72,000km interval is clearly too much so I would suggest 48,000km or maybe 60,000km for a town car.

Next is the fuel filter.

Now a question - the handbook indicates that when the fuel filter is changed you need to go up to the bleed valve with the lift pump running to purge the system of air.

Do you actually have to do this?? or will the lift pump just push any air straight through the system into the engine??

Ean Austral - you recently changed your filter - did you purge or just let the lift pump run for a while?

Thanks

Garry

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Gday Garry,

Mine is an 08 model, and it doesnt have the fuel filter with the pipes on it, it is just a screw on type, so I just filled the filter with fuel ( about .5 ltr max ), screwed the filter into place and it started and ran fine.

It doesnt matter what car I change fuel filters in I always fill the filter with clean fuel.

When you get around to changing your gearbox oil, put a peg on your nose..it dont smell the best..


Cheers Ean

Thanks Ean = I have the screw on filter as well. I asked about purging the system as there seems to be a lot of extra actions listed in the manual for service items that do not need doing - eg disconnect battery to change the engine oil.

I might put up a comment on your gearbox thread.

Garry

I followed some instructions from here.

Home - DISCO3.CO.UK Knowledge Base

Click on maintenance and nearly everything you need to know is documented.

Garry,
I have sourced the Caltex engine oil and used it with no problems for top ups.
I have never had the sensors wear through on the brakes. You can run the pads down to a couple of mm of meat without them wearing out. I got about 80,000KM out of my first set of disks and pads but I do a lot of highway KM. Sensors are dead simple to replace as mentioned above. If you go here there are detailed instructions on disc and pad replacement.

Regards,
Tote

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ean Austral

so I just filled the filter with fuel ( about .5 ltr max ), screwed the filter into place and it started and ran fine.

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Finally got around to doing the fuel filter (only 14,000km over due:().

While is is relatively easy to do the Poms do know how to make something harder to do than it needs to be. Why put the filter over the top of the X member when it could be mounted about 4 inches further forward with no obstructions and probably just as protected from damage where it is now.

Following Ean's tip (thanks) filled the filter first so no issues starting up. On draining out the old filter there was no sediment or mud as such but a couple of specks of grit about the size of sand grains - most likely knocked in when refuelling so it looks that the quality of fuel put in so far has been good.

Cheers

Garry

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Nomad9

I use full synthetics in the difs and transfer case, personally I use the Royal Purple 75W-90 full synthetic in the transfer case as well. As far as I could find out the TF 0753 was a 75W-90 weight oil, I've been using these oils now for about 15k, everything is a smooth as silk.

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Hi, keen to know your thoughts now some time on?

Shane

I have heard of some people in the UK using standard GL5 80/90 in the transfer, but for my money I'll be using the LR stuff as it isn't standard trans oil from what I've read. Similar to using ATF in the 6HP transmission - some people have run it for thousands of km without problem, my trans started squawking after 50km with it in there! Changed back to the LG6 pretty quickly let me tell you!! Thank god it was fine after that! 50K down the track now.


The transfer case oil can be bought at parts stores like TRS or Rovacraft for about $55 per litre. You need two litres.