60,000km Service RRS 2.7

**101RRS** · 24th January 2012, 10:36 PM

My RRS TDV6 has clocked up 60,000km so it is service time. Normally this would be an 'O' service so mainly an oil and filter change but I would like/need to do some additional work as oulined below. I have researched as best I can and have come up with oil specs and volumes for the fluid changes I want to make.

This is what I am intending:

RRS 60,000km Service
O Service
·Engine oil – 5.54 litres of 5W/30 oil to specification WSS-M2C-913B meeting ACEA B1/B3 spec grade oil (what does that mean in plain language 5w/30 synthetic?

Other work
·Replace fuel filter because it was not done at 48,000km
·Check air filter – replace if necessary – due for replacement next service
·Replace rear diff oil – 1.1 litres of Castrol SAF-XO - 75W/90 spec grade oil
·Replace front diff oil – .61 litres of Castrol SAF-XO - 75W/90 spec grade oil
·Replace transfer case oil – 1.5 litres of Shell TF 0753 spec grade oil
·A basic drain of gear box oil – 3.5-4 litres of Shell M13754 spec grade oil
·Replace brake fluid – SHELL DONAX YB DOT4 ESL FLUIDover due by 2 years
·Replace brake rotors if under spec – min 17 mm rear, min 27 mm front
·Replace brake pads if down – min 3 mm rear, min 3 mm front
·Replace park brake pads if down – min 2mm
I understand I will need to get tfr and gearbox oil from Landrover and pay their prices - are there any issues getting the other fluids from the usual sources?? What does the engine oil spec mean in plain english?

The low brake warning lights come on at 75% worn (mine have not as yet) - what does this equate to pad thickness?? Mine pad thickness is 3mm - is this more or less than the 75%. If I left the pads and the light came on before the next service I understand the sensors will need replacing - what sort of cost are these?

I am happy about doing the work but always happy to take pointers from those who have done it before.

Thanks

Garry

**Nomad9** · 25th January 2012, 07:59 PM

Hi Garycol,
I use the ZF lifeguard 6 oil in the gearbox which is the right oil for the gearbox, it is still prety expensive but I could buy this from a ZF agent cheaper than LR. I use a full synthetic 5W-30 in the engine, I use full synthetics in the difs and transfer case, personally I use the Royal Purple 75W-90 full synthetic in the transfer case as well. As far as I could find out the TF 0753 was a 75W-90 weight oil, I've been using these oils now for about 15k, everything is a smooth as silk.
There is a taxi mob in Sydney running the RP ATF in the gearbox in their BMWs which from what I understand in the same box as the LR box for many many klms without problem. As soon as I finish of my Lifeguard oil I could well be changing over. Not 100% sure yet.
Additional items, does the RRS have a pollen filter behind the glovebox? Might be worth considering.

**101RRS** · 25th January 2012, 08:30 PM

Thanks for that information - great stuff. The pollen filter is due next service so I will pull the one I have out and just tap any stuff out. I do not use fresh air when I am offroad so I am confident it is OK - I have a spare if it is really dirty.

In two services time I will be doing the major gearbox service - replacing the filter and sump with a metal one and doing a mega flush. This basic oil change should keep the oil happy until then.

Cheers

Garry

**bobzed57** · 26th January 2012, 09:16 AM

Garry

Let me know how you get on. My D3 goes in for its 60k service on 6 Feb.

Cheers

Bob

**101RRS** · 26th January 2012, 10:51 AM

Bob - The 60K service is just an oil and filter change, a check of the battery and if your car is three years old a brake fluid change. If other services have been done correctly and on time there is nothing else to, not even checking the pads etc

.

Listening to some of the stories on here and a lack of service history on my car (mainly oil changes) I am intending to do the things I have listed, to bring the servicing back to a known baseline. I will then follow the service schedule with the exception of the air filter, diffs, tfr case and gearbox oils which will be done on a 48,000 - 96,000km schedule.

I will be doing the work myself - don't trust any of the so called local experts - and contracting out any particular bits I cannot do - looking at the workshop manual it looks stgraight forward - basically no different to any other car.

Garry

**stig0000** · 26th January 2012, 11:11 AM

the pad sensors are about 40$ and easy to change,,

**Ivan** · 27th January 2012, 08:39 AM

You can get the Royal Purple Oil for $25 a litre from ebay

HTH

Ivan

**101RRS** · 29th January 2012, 04:57 PM

Went shopping for engine oil and of course nothing has specs exactly the same as listed by landrover. Plenty of 5w30 fully synthetic oil ranging in price from $50 to $100 for 5 litres but none with the exact same numbers in the detail specs.

I ended up with Shell Helix full synthetic Ultra Extra 5w30 - is slightly better spec than required - the other oil that seemed to fit the bill was a Nulon 5w30 Euro spec but at nearly $100 for 5 litres was a bit more expensive.

So what engine oil are people using in their TDV6s.

Also a trick for new players - put some nice clean rag in the oil filler hole when you take the the top engine cover off. I didn't, and some dust from a recent 4wding trip that was on the underside of the engine cover fell into the oil filler hole

. Likewise it is easy for any water or dirt around the filler to fall into the oil filler hole even with the engine cover on.

Cheers

Garry

**Mike_S** · 30th January 2012, 10:24 AM

Garry

I use Castrol Magnatec 5W30. In the UK it's badged as A1 with a Ford logo on the front of the container. On the back it gives the specs, I'm quoting here but the wording is as follows:

SAE 5W-30; API SL; ILSAC GF-3; ACEA A1/B1, A5/B5;
Meets Ford WSS-M2C913-A; WSS-M2C913-B, WSS-M2C-913-C

There are a couple of different specs of Magnatec here I've noticed, but it may be worth you checking it out.

I picked up 10 litres of the stuff before I left the UK when a supermarket chain had it on a ridiculous offer, I think something like 30% of the normal price. It was posted up on the D3 forum, I don't think the supermarkets knew what had hit them when every Land Rover owner for miles around descended on them! I got the last containers the local one had. My independant went in to his local and bought a pallet of it from them, it was cheaper than he can buy it direct from Castrol.

By the way, your RAI passed the southern coast of Spain yesterday...

**101RRS** · 30th January 2012, 10:58 AM

Thanks for that Mike - when putting the oil in the car I noticed that the filler cap has a notice that Landrover recommends Castrol SAE 5w 30. Certainly at the Repco, Autopro and Supercheap stores I looked at they did not have any Castrol oil that met specs - but I could have gone over to the Castrol distributor and got it.

My first oil change went OK I guess - why are two of the nuts that the bolts hold the undertray on not captive - seems strange not to make them all captive? Also I wonder how long it will be that a disposable screw in oil filter is made - the current arrangement is a bit backward. I had some trouble getting the old filter out of the housing but a bit of gentle prising with a screw driver got it out.

I did the right thing for once and actually used my tension wrench (18ft ibs) to tighten up the filter housing - however when everything went awfully tight and there was no slipping on the tension wrench I began to smell a rat - the tension wrench is knackered and I had over tensioned it - took a bit to get it off but no damage done except a little burring of the top nut moulding when the socket slipped off trying to undo it. I then tightened by hand and then the usual 1/4 further turn with the socket - all seems OK.

It is all good doing this sort of work yourself as you learn a lot more about the car in other areas as you do these things.

Cheers

Garry

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