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Thread: Skimming the brake discs on a RRS

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Hjelm View Post
    I am bitching about having to replace the front discs on my poxy Falcon ute. Third set in 200,000 k's. Should not have to replace iron discs that are rubbed by softer material. Up to me I would have just machined them smooth and bugger the recommended thickness. I don't like paying to replace things that should not have to be replaced. Pads/linings yes, they are wear items. Drums/discs no. They should not wear out.
    Why is it, that you don't just drive the County, seeing as your always whinind about this 'orrible falcon ute?

  2. #22
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    JC - I appreciate you work on these vehicles all the time but your advice is not the case with my own vehicle. First set of pads lasted 70,000km without setting off the wear sensors. Disks were gouge and warp free and only 1/3 worn.

    From the experience with my car I would say that rotors should normally last for every second pad change and that is in a car mainly used around town.

    The determinant should be actual measurements rather than the generic change rotors with every pad change.

    Cheers

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol View Post
    JC - I appreciate you work on these vehicles all the time but your advice is not the case with my own vehicle. First set of pads lasted 70,000km without setting off the wear sensors. Disks were gouge and warp free and only 1/3 worn.

    From the experience with my car I would say that rotors should normally last for every second pad change and that is in a car mainly used around town.

    The determinant should be actual measurements rather than the generic change rotors with every pad change.

    Cheers

    Garry
    I think he meant disc rotors replaced every pad change for later falcons

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol View Post
    JC - I appreciate you work on these vehicles all the time but your advice is not the case with my own vehicle. First set of pads lasted 70,000km without setting off the wear sensors. Disks were gouge and warp free and only 1/3 worn.

    From the experience with my car I would say that rotors should normally last for every second pad change and that is in a car mainly used around town.

    The determinant should be actual measurements rather than the generic change rotors with every pad change.

    Cheers

    Garry
    Hi Garry,

    that's true we do see some last longer than others, but the majority i see are a pad and disc change at less than 50k. at this point it is folly as a repairer to fit new pads to discs in poor condition/approaching minimum thickness as it is mine and the customers neck on the line. discs are cheap, lives and litigation aren't

    Also having them come back with noisy brakes is a waste of everbodies time and $$, as is a lousy pedal feel and shuddering when hot.

    i appreciate not everyones brakes are in this situation, but i have a responsibility as a repairer to avoid issues and maintain safety for the $105/ hour they shell out for me to work on their vehicle. There have been 1 or 2 situations where i haven't had to replace the rotors on rrs and d3, but they are in the extreme minority.

    And yes as matt said the above couple of my replies were directed at falcon drivers

    jc
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  5. #25
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    I agree - if they need doing then they should be done but many "service centres" recommend work even if they do not need doing. Most "service centres" seem to be more interested in making a buck from their clients rather than doing their servicing jobs - there are exceptions of course.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol View Post
    I agree - if they need doing then they should be done but many "service centres" recommend work even if they do not need doing. Most "service centres" seem to be more interested in making a buck from their clients rather than doing their servicing jobs - there are exceptions of course.

    Garry

    correct, but it is interesting that the charges for machining rotors especially if you own your own on car lathe make it more profitable than buying in and replacing them.

    there are always the exceptions.

    jc
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  7. #27
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    I went over the council tip weighbridge the other day and with the wife, myself and the car has a full tank of fuel, bullbar and cargo barrier and came up 2.8 tonnes. At 100 kph it is an awful mass to stop. I have a high value of our lives, and the car as well, and brakes and tyres are something I will never skimp on.
    The brakes on the D4 are brilliant and I will keep them that way and I am not forgetting I have a heavy lux barge which cost me a lot of hard earned money, and as such I know the cost of keeping it on the road is a bit higher than average.
    It certainly stops better than the Patrol I had previously and I am happy to pay the price for the comfort and safety the D4 offers.
    2012 Fuji White 3.0 D4, Rear view camera, Hi-line sound, E-diff, Xenon lights, ARB winch bar, Lightforce 240 50w HID. Brads sliders.

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