My guess the engine fault was the real fault as all the others can cascade from the reduced power mode. There will be a fault code stored for the engine fault so best to get it checked before it starts to happen more often.
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Hi, started car, drove 3km dirt road from farm to main road, put my foot down and got multiple fault messages including (not word for word): special programs not available, engine fault reduced power, trans fault limited gears available, suspension fault suspension lowering plus the car had lost power and multiple warning lights on dash. Car is 2008 RRS TDV8.
From what I have read these cars can have electrical glitches plus it is unlikely to have so many actual faults at once. So I pulled over, switched off, removed keys, waited 2 mins and re-started - no problems, drove like a dream.
Again from what I have read here and on RRS UK anything from a blown rear tail light globe to the brake switch to alternator and battery issues can cause this. BUT, what do you think is the most likely cause? Where should I start? The car had a new alternator in July this year. Thanks in advance, cheers, Marty
 Swaggie
					
					
						Swaggie
					
					
						My guess the engine fault was the real fault as all the others can cascade from the reduced power mode. There will be a fault code stored for the engine fault so best to get it checked before it starts to happen more often.
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Just checked both batteries with multi meter at the terminals - the main was 11.1 the secondary 11.0 - and yet the car still starts! The main is the original from 2008 and the secondary is 2011. Sitting in shed on the C-tek to see what happens.
 Wizard
					
					
						Supporter
					
					
						Wizard
					
					
						SupporterMine got the same messages and it turned out to be the brake switch. Went from slight delay after an intersection for a few months, to complete failure in one step. After restarting the engine, I just managed to get to the dealer before it wouldn't go at all.
With your low voltages, though, it is probably the alternator or battery or something. Graeme is usually close to correct with what he comes up with so I won't question his judgement!
Bob
Marty, if it hasn't come back I would not worry about it at the moment. Lots of spurious things can cause this sort of thing. With my TDV6 I do not worry about messages that go away unless they come back in quite succession - if it does, time to get codes read and then take necessary action.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
 Swaggie
					
					
						Swaggie
					
					
						 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Hi Graeme and thanks for your input. Off topic - do you have a recommended installer for your LLAMS unit in SA? Cheers.
 Swaggie
					
					
						Swaggie
					
					
						I'll send you a PM rather than answer here.
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
The brake light switch is a bugger for causing this.
Detail: There are 2x circuits in the brake switch. A high current circuit for the switching of the lights and a low current circuit for telling the ECUs that the brake pedal is being pressed.
After a while, you get a build-up of 'crud' inside the switch, which ultimately leads to arcing. This arcing causes a spike on the Low Current circuit, which then causes the ECU to have a fit and lights the dash up like a Christmas Tree!!!
Pull the switch out, split it open, clean out the crud and stick it all back together. If that fixes it, get a new one and swap it out.
HTH
M
If you got the "reduced performance" message first, and the car actually lost power, then I'd suspect that was the issue. If you got the message but there was no actual loss of power, then it's likely the battery voltages or an intermittent electrical spike somewhere (brake-light switch, globes etc).
Cheers,
Gordon
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