Thread: 2012 RRS Rotors and Pads

Welcome and congrats!
60000 isn't terrible in my experience. Only got 40000 out of the rear on our previous D4.
There's lots on pads in the D3/4 forum - Akebono etc - not so much on rotors AFAIK.
My only useful insight is that when in a hurry I got a local mechanic to do my front brakes (how hard can it be, right?). Without asking he used cheap rotors and pads. The rotors have surface rust visible through the wheels and a slight shudder, while the pads were so awful they glazed the rotors and squealed so badly I had to have them replaced (don't know what with, sorry, I'd guess OEM).
So I guess the moral is that you need decent brakes to handle 2.6t!

Originally Posted by Stuart02

Welcome and congrats!
60000 isn't terrible in my experience. Only got 40000 out of the rear on our previous D4.
There's lots on pads in the D3/4 forum - Akebono etc - not so much on rotors AFAIK.
My only useful insight is that when in a hurry I got a local mechanic to do my front brakes (how hard can it be, right?). Without asking he used cheap rotors and pads. The rotors have surface rust visible through the wheels and a slight shudder, while the pads were so awful they glazed the rotors and squealed so badly I had to have them replaced (don't know what with, sorry, I'd guess OEM).
So I guess the moral is that you need decent brakes to handle 2.6t!

Your right. Was considering the local shop. But I think I'm leaning towards genuine rotors and pads just to be safe, as using anything else will be taking a gamble if they will squeal, warp or shudder eventually.

See if I can source genuine without going to dealer and getting local guys to fit them. Other thing with local shop is they won't replace wear sensors etc as the dealer would.

Have booked it in at rover works in Canberra for an inspection as its a recent private purchase and I'll ask them all these questions and see what they recommend.

So back from work shop today.

My first landrover work shop experience wasn't great. Burning a hole in the pocket already.

First matter,
Got brakes replaced, all 4 rotors and pads and sensors for $1500 which I think is fair.

Second matter, control arms bushes are buggered. Recommend replace front lower control arms. I understand that pressing out bushes is time consuming so kinda accepting the whole just buying the control arms to save the hassle untill the quote came to $1880 with wheel alignment. I think this a little steep ? What you guys think?
Ive looked online and control arms are all under $500 a corner deleivered? So if we trying to save on labour by not pressing bushes why would I be paying so much cause from my calculations that's like $880 for labour ?
Advice? Opinion?

Matter 3 i was told my suspension warning light is pointing to a buggered or on the way out pump. . $1980 fitted is quote. Once again I think little steep when pumps online are generally under $800.
What are people's opinions on repairs kits? Worth trying first?
is replacing pumps a hard thing to do? Plug and play senario?

Not in rush to replacing cause generally seems fine just sooks when I try to put into access hight. Goes up fine. Doesn't like down all the time. Just avoid access hight till I decided what I doing.

HELP!!!

For comparison, I do genuine Land Rover arms for D4s supplied, fitted and aligned for just over $1000. $1880 seems a bit steep.

Originally Posted by BigJon

For comparison, I do genuine Land Rover arms for D4s supplied, fitted and aligned for just over $1000. $1880 seems a bit steep.

I like to stick to one shop but makes it hard. I willing to pay the extra 100 or so don't order online etc but think the saving going to be a bit more then that.

Might order them online and get local tyre shop to fit them and do a wheel alignment.

I got rda discs and bendix 4x4 pads plus both pad sensors for 760 all up and fitted them myself.
Couldnt be happier. A week after I put the brakes in, I was traveling back home at midnight from Yarrawonga and A very large beast of bovine appearance (ok a cow)
just walked out onto the road to join the 15 other cows on the other side of the road. (why did the cow cross the road?... to test he new brakes on the RRS)
Full panic stop from 100 kph and they exceeded my expectations.
These where standard vented discs not slotted et al and the bendix pads dont put black dust everywhere like the genuine one had.
Most competent mechanics can do things like lower control arms as long as they arent in a hurry. I believe you should get the bolts washers as well as they can corrode in.
Good luck
Dont be afraid to get on here as there a some pretty cluey people here to help you
Good luck