Thread: Terrible low beam distance (Bi Xenon)

Originally Posted by Rob king

I've ordered 55w globes with balast. http://s.aliexpress.com/RbAN7vuE

They indicate that they are D1S format where the Bi Xenons in the RRS are D2S so not sure if the ones you are getting will fit.

Also with these having the ballast inbuilt on the globe I am not sure they will fit with the weather cap in place. I have HIDs in my low beam with the seperate ballast which fits inside the light housing housing - indeed when I also had HIDs in my Hi beams the ballast for them also fitted inside the housing.

Garry

Garry,
As mentioned earlier, I already have these HID's in my headlights. Just 35w not 55w.
They fit the socket perfectly and have plenty of clearance to the weather cap.
Dont know why I'd want a separate balast floating around in there.
Rob

Ok - thats great - seeing it works for you I might also give it a go as my HIDs have been in for a long time and light output is not what it used to be. Having halogen housings I will have to get the H7 version.

Cheers

Garry

Does anyone know how to lift the distance of the beam cut off point , this must be a design factor irrelevant to what type of globes are in the headlight , it looks as though a barrier is blocking the beam lenght like a half pulled down blind ?? .

Originally Posted by Rob king

My '07 has them too.
I've replaced them thinking it might improve things but not really. I drive a lot at night with the foggies on too, it helps light up the verges. No-one seems to complain.
I went on line and sourced some new globes from china, same phillips globe, same part numbers numbers etc, it was just a straight swap.
The originals were 5000K from memory and I went for a whiter 6000k spec but it's made little difference.
Mabe going up to 8000K might help but they'll be very blue.
FYI, I got a packet of 2 philips from ali express, delivered for $11-...
LR wanted $90 each fitted. It tool me about 10 mins, taking my time.
Not sure about your later vehicles, but mine had a lever in the headlight to enable the bias to be swapped when crossing boarders and moving from left to right side of the road.
I also see the new Velar is quoting matrix LED so the bi xenon obviously wasn't a success.
regards,
Rob

The higher in temp you go the worse your vision will get.

And prime temp is 3,800-4,200k

Originally Posted by Fatso

Does anyone know how to lift the distance of the beam cut off point , this must be a design factor irrelevant to what type of globes are in the headlight , it looks as though a barrier is blocking the beam lenght like a half pulled down blind ?? .

Bi-xenons have a shutter that is raised for high beam use. There are adjustment screws to properly align the beams but both the bi-xenon assembly and high beam fill-in reflectors are adjusted as 1. Adjusting the low beam cut-off upwards adjusts the assembly rather than the shutter.

Originally Posted by Graeme

Bi-xenons have a shutter that is raised for high beam use. There are adjustment screws to properly align the beams but both the bi-xenon assembly and high beam fill-in reflectors are adjusted as 1. Adjusting the low beam cut-off upwards adjusts the assembly rather than the shutter.

Graeme,
A friend of mine has a problem in his '07 SC sport, the drivers side high beam can take up to 15 seconds to drop. Do you know how the shutter is operated? and whether a 'sticky' shutter is common?
(His also has adaptive cornering - so may be more complex)
thanks, Rob.

The shutters can get sticky, usually from lack of use where lots of high/low beam selection seems to be the cure. Adaptive lighting shouldn't be any different as far as shutter operation is concerned.