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Thread: Notes on RRS L320 MY10 TDV8 6HP26 Transmission Steel Pan, Filter & Fluid replacement.

  1. #21
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by loanrangie View Post
    Just use the level plug like everyone else does, pan is lower so not suitable anyway .
    How do you undo the side filler plug? I have a Disco 3 V6 4.0. I have gone through the procedure of replacing the sump and filter. I am unable to undo the side fill plug.

  2. #22
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    Eat more weeties.
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  3. #23
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    Jul 2009
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    I have hex key / allen key socket set, so use that with bar. it can be tough, pray you dont strip it...

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by haydent View Post
    I have hex key / allen key socket set, so use that with bar. it can be tough, pray you dont strip it...
    Fit hex socket, tap firmly, then undo….

  5. #25
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    Jul 2009
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    I recently did my filter and oil again, change number 2 after originally switching.

    I found the rubber seal on the neck of the filter had separated and got left behind in the transmission, so it meant the filter was sitting in the pan when i dropped it, and so couldnt remove the pan, so had to hold the filter up with screw driver to be able to slide the pan out of the way.

    I didnt realise this had happened right away, and couldnt work out why the new filter wasnt going in, so look out for this.

    Then i had to use a screwdriver to bend the seperated seal to pry it out, as its wire/steel ribbed.

    Ive also found after putting the new filter and gasket in, i have to keep re-tightening the bolts, this seems to be a problem with this gasket design, it must compress over time, though you would think it would expand ? unless the bolts are coming loose, maybe i could mark them as a test., but with the last time , eventually you dont have to keep tightening, you just have to regularly monitor for oil leaks after doing the replacement, which means its best to not replace the cover (assuming you arent going offroad)

    I noticed the company (mjproducts.com.au) offers a different gasket now too, so maybe this is a improved design to address this problem. Infact now i look for links there are 3 choices:

    Green Genuine
    Black Duraprene (the ones ive been using)
    Steel / Rubber (which they claim a guarantee of no leaks and reusable)

  6. #26
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    I’ve been using the steel rubber combo. So far no leaks and done the transmission 4 times in its life.

  7. #27
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    Thanks, its seems that would be the best choice, and what ill use next time.

  8. #28
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    The filter dropping out and leaving the seal in seems normal. Fitting the new pan is a juggle to push up the filter and get the pan in place fast as seems to all hold together like a sandwich.

    The rubber gaskets need an occasional check. Several of my bolts were finger tight but no leak at the time I did the last pan removal. Getting them to torque and taking the squish out prolongs the agony of getting the pan and new gasket back on.

    I wish I went the rubber/ steel.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    St Helena,Melbourne
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    The grey duraprene that mj products sell is good, I reused it after doing the valve body rebuild and it's dry as a bone.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

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