HID & the L322

Harlie
I was trying to sort out lights for my upcoming car and found these threads that cover headlights,fog lights and LED bulb replacements. Well worth a read.

fullfatrr.com - View topic - xenon 6000k

fullfatrr.com - View topic - Fog Light HID Upgrade

fullfatrr.com - View topic - LED Bulbs




Then these are about general LED conversions..


fullfatrr.com - View topic - led upgrade

fullfatrr.com - View topic - LED Hi-Beams - With Pics

fullfatrr.com - View topic - Cluster Pixel Repair and White LED Upgrade with pics

fullfatrr.com - View topic - Wing mirror bulbs/LEDs

fullfatrr.com - View topic - LED Upgrades


I wish ARB would do a D3 modified bar for the L322 ,the SRS activation can't be that dis-similar :mellow: that it would require starting from scratch with all those involved costs.


Laurie

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Originally Posted by PAT303

Jack,yep there's a good upgrade.I'd like to find the dickhead that designed the original and shove my original up his ass. Pat

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:Rolling: gold!

mmm - reading lots of talk about being able to "program the LCM". So the Light Check Module can be programmed to stop testing certain lights - that would solve a lot, then just need to confirm Graeme's idea of too much draw.

Who's got a Fault Mate? I'll buy one if someone can confirm it will do it - I need to get a service reader anyway.

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Originally Posted by harlie

then just need to confirm Graeme's idea of too much draw.

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Yes, its only a conclusion drawn from what happens with bi-xenon fitment to D3s & D4s originally fitted with all halogens.

Ok I’ll answer my own because someone else asked too, more testing results from tonight.

Graeme is on the money – there is too mush draw for the LCM. The voltage at the ballast drops to 11.4 when it is trying to start, and that is with the engine running, I thought that it was tripping the thermo breaker (built in to the LCM) but it’s not, it’s the ballast resetting that causes the flashing. I did provide it with another + feed (wire from the jump stud) while it was trying to start and it started and continued to run once the 2nd feed had been removed…. So the LCM and factory harness can’t supply enough current to start it.

This may be fixed by a different 35w kit but I’m not going to spend any more $ on HID kits hoping they might work, some obviously do, but which, I don’t know. Besides the point of this is for more light, so I want 55s (the one fitted is absurdly brighter than the halogen in the other side). For the record, this 55w kit I have draws 11.2amp at start up for one globe :eek: - that is running it off the camper Andersen plug so it would be less with the engine running and 14v in the system instead of 12.5ish but it is still high. Once warm (less than 3 sec) it draws 4.6 at 12.5v. So they will work off a relay, and I bet the warm up time will be significantly shorter than a kit working through the harness.

Error message (Check Main Beam). This is indeed a configurable setting. The actual name of the setting that needs to be changed is; Main Beam Failure: This denotes if a failure of the main beam lights will be notified or not. There is also Main Beam Lights Monitor which is whether the lights are monitored when turned off, So I assume that theoretically it is possible to monitor the light only when turned on and if you have a kit that will run through the harness that could be handy, because once the HID started the Error message cleared itself, so if the first setting was left as true and the second set to 0 you should not see error when turned off and should test Ok when on. The only tools I’ve been able to find that can change these settings is BBS MSV-2 and a little app called NavCoder which only reads and writes modules on the iBus (no Diagnostic capabilities). Not sure if the dealer would do it for me or whether it is worth the $ for testing… I also confirmed that a resistor will stop the Error message.

I’m going to do some more research on a diognostic kit to buy.

So. I will run these HIDs with a relay and it’s not much extra to solve the error with a resistor for the time being (a relay with the resistor built in like narva 68028 might have issues with heat). I have decided to make another box – it’s nearly the same schematic as the one I made for the LED trailer lights, wiring will be much heavier and use 40amp relays. Since I’m doing it I will make it with circuits & outputs for the extra 2 sets of lights I plan to install (replace fogs and on a bar – if I can get one) so install of those is just plug in. This will take me a couple of weeks by the time the bits arrive and I get to it, not sure if anyone is interested in the finished, if not I’ll leave this here…

Also what was interesting is that in V12 and later of the LCM there is a setting that will enable the front fogs to behave like driving light - only on with main beam (how the doco reads), if that’s accurate then a replacement of the fogs would just require the setting changed. I think mine is V11.

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Originally Posted by Graeme

Yes, its only a conclusion drawn from what happens with bi-xenon fitment to D3s & D4s originally fitted with all halogens.

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For retro fitting factory bi-xenon to a car with halogens, it requires a LCM setting change. Setting name; Bi-Xenon Lights: This denotes if Xenon lights are fitted or not. The bi-xenon lights require power on pins in the plug that the halogens don't, and from what we've seen and read, if you try and run larger globes/ballast than standard it won't work. (This is from what I've read today, I have not tested it.)

THe D3/4 bi-xenon conversion works without any wiring changes but with flickering only on warm-up unless the setting is changed. The "power on pins" clause may be referring the extra power being drawn (probably detected by the voltage lowering below what halogens would cause) which is not a fault condition if bi-xenons are fitted. Your voltage dropping to 11.4 is more than sufficient to start the ballast/globe but most likely thought by the LCM to be excessively low for the halogen that's supposed to be connected, so turns power off momentarily to protect the wiring against a possible short circuit.

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Originally Posted by Graeme

THe D3/4 bi-xenon conversion works without any wiring changes but with flickering only on warm-up unless the setting is changed. The "power on pins" clause may be referring the extra power being drawn (probably detected by the voltage lowering below what halogens would cause) which is not a fault condition if bi-xenons are fitted. Your voltage dropping to 11.4 is more than sufficient to start the ballast/globe but most likely thought by the LCM to be excessively low for the halogen that's supposed to be connected, so turns power off momentarily to protect the wiring against a possible short circuit.

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I must add my research is what is happening for the L322.

The LCM didn't cut power - that’s what I originally thought was going on but its not. The voltage fluctuates as the ballast tries to start it, only producing a flash about every 1.5-2 sec and the ballast gives up once it drops below 11.4, but the power is still on the line and it’s far from started.
11.4 is what I'm measuring with my reasonable quality home handyman multi meter – what’s it really going to, the refresh rate of my unit isn’t super fast like the pro models. Acording to RAVE the LCM cuts power for what it thinks is a short based on a thermo sensor for each line - but thats not happening.

From what I read even though virtually the same in function the LCM in the D3/4 is completely different, and later L322s are different to the early iBus LCMs (which there are 4 models), need to visually look at the v1x number on the top of it. Once the L322 got a CanBus LCM they are the same, but it was one of the last iBus components changed. So ignor my comments re Bi-xenon, its for the (early) L322 - and changing the setting will provide power on the extra pins (so I'm told).

There are so many settings in there one could have fun for hours...

I have a little to add here.

I fitted factory (ex vouge) bi-xenons to my 04 td6 hse. They were a straight fit, even though they have exra pins on the lights, they still work fine so far(it makes sense that they are for extra power draw on startup). I have the globe warning error still, as i havent got around to changing the lcm settings.

Bullbar. I am waiting to take delivery of the one that was recently on ebay. I will likely start another thread on this to show everyone what is involved in adapting to the 322.

ARB and Opposite lock D3 winchbars are the same, apart from the OL one being $250 -300 cheaper. If you ask nicely, you can get one at trade price for as little as $1200.

They are ADR compliant, as there is no frontal difference to the D3. To have them srs certified, you need to submit one to crash testing with a fee of $2k. I will be doing the writeup with the hope that one of the above companys come to the party and slightly modify their existing bar, and sell them as an off the shelf winch bar to suit the 322.

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Originally Posted by harlie

and the ballast gives up once it drops below 11.4

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The specs on my latest ballasts say 9-15V, but whether they actually start at anything like 9V might be another matter.