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Thread: HID & the L322

  1. #1
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    HID & the L322

    Hi All
    I’m now on a quest to improve the pathetic high beam lights on the L322 (2004). This would be easy if one could purchase a decent front bar to hang a couple of lights off – I would even have a soft factory ABar but the only thing I can find is one of those ugly wrap around things – (can’t do it)…

    So, options I’m looking at.
    1. Fit a good bulbar with lights and UHF aerial, haha
    2. Hella have a new product that should fit in as a replacement for the fogs in the bumper, it is a high beam light that would be connected as per driving lights, fit a resistor in the empty fog light harness to stop the dash messages.
    3. Change the Highbeam fillers (2nd set of light that come on for high) with HID.

    Actually I’d like to do all 3… So I’ve started at #3 mainly after reading http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/130625-driving-lights-d3-rrs.html and the d4 owners reportings that it is simple.

    Has anyone played with HID kits for the Fillers? I have a 55w H7 Slimline kit, I know the kit is good. When connected I get the “Check Main Beam” message on the dash, and when turned on it flashes. At this stage I assume that a bypass & shunt circuit is needed similar to the LED trailer light solution, or am I missing something?
    Thanks
    L322 3.6TDv8 Lux

  2. #2
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    Do the lights continue to flicker after several seconds, ie once the globes have warmed-up?

    I've just bought a kit to refit my driving lights that has ballasts which draw a maximum of 6A. As these ballasts will be for the HID halogen replacement lights, I bought this slightly more expensive kit because the cheapest kit's ballasts were stated to have a somewhat higher initial current draw and these ballasts are supposed to be suitable for use with ecu-controlled switching. The ballasts currently in use for the HID halogen replacements are connected to a relay powered from the halogen high beam supply but I'm hoping to run the new ballasts directly from the halogen high beam. IIRC I've tested them directly and don't flicker anyway. If they flicker then I'll just fit a 2nd relay, as the existing one is wired to my driving light switch. I expect to fit them tomorrow. However the D4 doesn't monitor the halogen high beams for blown globes so obviously different to the L322.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graeme View Post
    Do the lights continue to flicker after several seconds, ie once the globes have warmed-up?

    .
    Yes it continues to flicker.
    So it needs to use no more than 6amp on start up?
    its not a cheap kit...
    L322 3.6TDv8 Lux

  4. #4
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    Is this the sort of front bar you might be looking for to hang your driving lights off etc etc off?????
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by RR46 View Post
    Is this the sort of front bar you might be looking for to hang your driving lights off etc etc off?????
    yeah, I think there is a few of us who have been teased by these pics. Is it SRS certified?
    L322 3.6TDv8 Lux

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by harlie View Post
    yeah, I think there is a few of us who have been teased by these pics. Is it SRS certified?
    Must say it dose look good.

    I have only seen the pics on the net so I wouldn't know. As far as getting it to be SRS comp if you throw enough cash at something anything is possible.

    If it I was going to fit a bar to my 06 S/C RR this is the only way I would do it. I have an ARB winch bar fitted to my soft dash RR classic with SRS

    Cheers

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by harlie View Post
    Yes it continues to flicker.
    So it needs to use no more than 6amp on start up?
    its not a cheap kit...
    I suspect the opposite - the ballasts are drawing more current when starting the globes than a halogen globe would be expected to draw. I can't see the cheaper kit that I ignored but IIRC it was 8.5A. Alternatively you might need to use a 35W kit but that might be seen as a blown globe once started.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

  8. #8
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    Harlie when you get it sorted make it a sticky will you,I want to do the same thing. Pat

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by PAT303 View Post
    Harlie when you get it sorted make it a sticky will you,I want to do the same thing. Pat
    x2

    I really hate the plastic bar and spotties on a small bar looks gay

    List of things I wanna sort for my rangie are

    1. Decent stereo with GPS and a small sub in the back.
    2. Light Upgrade
    3. Dual battery system.. Only for a fridge so a removable battery box will do. If only there was room for a proper battery!
    4. To find a proper jack (the factory one broke on me! lucky I had a second jack under the car)

    Camo
    2004 Black Range Rover L322 Diesel

  10. #10
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    Jack,yep there's a good upgrade.I'd like to find the dickhead that designed the original and shove my original up his ass. Pat

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