Thread: HID & the L322

Originally Posted by 33chinacars

Having just pick up my TD6 yesterday I too am disapointed with standard headlights. Not as good as my P38. Was thinking of just fitting some HID driving lights . Any known problems with that

Gary

As long as you have somewhere to mount said, just pick up the high beam signal for the relay from behind the lights - assuming you have a 02-05 you are looking for:
Left head light - Yellow & Green or
Right head light - White & Blue both are into pin #6

Thanks Harlie

Have a factory wraparound nudge bar to fit & to fit lights to. Yes MY05 TD6.

I also like the look of the D3 bull bar but not if its not air bag complient

Gary

My factory vouge xenons are plugged in where the standard HSE halogens were.
On low beam the larger light is on by itself, and on high beam the large and smaller lights are on. Is this what it is meant to do, or should the larger xenon have a shutter for flicking between high and low beam aswell?

Andy

ps IMHO standard 322 lights are far better than p38s.

Originally Posted by andrew e

My factory vouge xenons are plugged in where the standard HSE halogens were.
On low beam the larger light is on by itself, and on high beam the large and smaller lights are on. Is this what it is meant to do, or should the larger xenon have a shutter for flicking between high and low beam aswell?

Andy

ps IMHO standard 322 lights are far better than p38s.

Andy, the larger light (outer) should change - noticably, there is a shutter inside the projector that will move away from the globe if all is well.

For your new lights, at the Right Hand Headlight (colours different for left), when on high beam you should have a + power on 2 pins that the old light don't have - 4 & 5.
Pin 6 – White & Blue (inner halogen light – same as halogen assembly) + used for flash as well
Pin 4 - Green & Red ( + ignition feed from passenger fuse box – fuse # 32 to the Xenon ECU)
Pin 5 - White & black (main beam + feed (switch wire) control the shutter

It’s up and running and nowhere near straight forward like the D3/4…

Important correction to add to the last two posts I made; - RAVE circuit diagrams have the colours incorrect. The colours I mentioned above are listed as Main Beam (high) but (in my car) they are definitely Dipped Beam (Low).

High beam is Yellow & Blue on the RHS / White & Green on the LHS (colours listed for Dipped). Interesting is that the Dipped beam wire is considerably heavier than the Main (2.5 v 1.5), would help explaining the trouble with the harness supplying a good supply.

I just thought I'd throw in some info that I have.....
I recently bought a Td6 '02 L322 that has had HID's fitted to the main beam, and the extra high beam spots. The light is amazing, I have never had better lights on a car.
It also has LED lights for the front parkers, and LED lights for the number-plate lights.
Every time I started the car I would get a check main beam and check side lights etc....
So yesterday I made up a little circuit with 2 transistors, one diode, and a bunch of resistors....I downloaded some software called "Navcoder", paid the owner 20 Euro ($29), he sent me the serial number to activate it overnight, so this morning at work in the car park I read the LCM settings, disabled the "cold" and "warm" monitoring and "coded" the LCM ......now no warnings!!!!!
Took all of 25 seconds.
All up it cost me about $35 (including the software!) and has to be a MUCH better way of doing it instead of mucking about with shunt resistors!
2 words of advice, download the software, pay for it, then update to the Beta version, then do the coding, as the beta has a much better interface but costs 25 Euro if you try and register that! And secondly, I think it only works for up to 2005 L322's, but I'm not sure
If anyone is in Melb and wants to come around I'll do theirs for a beer.
It does a few other things too, but I only have a MID display, so I can't use all the Nav and TV stuff that it does.

Any questions, ask away, I'll try to answer.
Cheers,
Fraser

Agree! Exactly what I've done Fraser, funny timing I only got back to it on the weekend as I had another kit to try. I ended up still using a relay to power the 55w HID in the mainbeam lights (modified the HID kit loom to include a fuse and relay in the power supply to the ballast so it is still completely separate from the car's wiring and can be removed if needed) but used Navcoder to change the LCM settings for the warnings. Navcoder is very limited in terms of the LCM but it covers what we need for this...

Just changing the mainbeam to HID has made a monumental difference. I imagine with a set of HID Driving Lights yours would be amazing. I wish I had something to bolt them to.

While looking to do the same mod to our other car (same style LCM controlled system but over CAN BUS) I purchased a 35w HID kit that advertises "No Bulb out errors". Over the weekend I fitted it to the L322 to test and it runs fine off the factory loom (max of 5.8amp on startup) and does indeed hide the warnings without recoding the LCM, I was going to chuck the 55s, however after a night drive the 35s are nowhere near as bright so the 55s went back in (hence the need for a relay) - new 35s in the 2nd car. However the 55w kit I purchased originally did make life difficult just figuring out what was going on, knowing all that now, if starting this again would use a 35w kit, wouldn't notice what missing if I hadn't tried the brighter kit, but it's done now - and they are absurdly bright...

Those interested do a search on ebay for "EDX v1 HID H7 Xenon Kit for VW GOLF". Makes it really simple, plug'n'play - no coding needed.

Speaking of Navcoder. There is an option to disable the trailer light warning. I would like to try that out on an LED trailer to see if it gets around the shunt issue as well - I have a feeling they will still flash as it will hide the warning but still cold test, unfortunately my trailer now has the shunt box built in so I need to find one to test, what’s the chance you have one? Even if it takes care of the errors it would mean that a "fix box" could be much simpler.

Navcoder will work on all IBus vehicles, I'm sure the LCM was nearly the last IBUS ecu to be changed and it will be there up until MY07, easy check to see if that White/Grey/yellow wire is there...

Originally Posted by harlie

There is an option to disable the trailer light warning. I would like to try that out on an LED trailer to see if it gets around the shunt issue as well - I have a feeling they will still flash as it will hide the warning but still cold test, unfortunately my trailer now has the shunt box built in so I need to find one to test, what’s the chance you have one? Even if it takes care of the errors it would mean that a "fix box" could be much simpler.

Navcoder will work on all IBus vehicles, I'm sure the LCM was nearly the last IBUS ecu to be changed and it will be there up until MY07, easy check to see if that White/Grey/yellow wire is there...

Harlie, if you have the beta of Navcoder, if the trailer warning "cold" is disabled, I'm pretty sure that stops the testing pulses when the lights are off; "warm" is current sensing while lights are on.