Without one iota of knowledge on the subject, I think that that is the valve which links the FR and FL airbags when off road and disconnects them onroad to provide an anti roll bar function.
Regards Philip A
Without one iota of knowledge on the subject, I think that that is the valve which links the FR and FL airbags when off road and disconnects them onroad to provide an anti roll bar function.
Regards Philip A
Yeah - I have a NanoCom for my TD5, and that's been used a few times by others to sort out their cars.Quote:
Originally Posted by harlie
Don't suppose there is any chance a NanoCom will work with an L322........ reckon that's wishful thinking though :(
bit more credit due here... think you could have it.Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipA
Spudboy - do you have a copy of RAVE? I can check when I get home tonight but the answer will be in there. Their description of EAS system is brilliant
I have an old copy of RAVE that I bought from Dave's store, but I think it only has Defender and Disco data on it - pretty sure I have not seen anything there about the L322 (bought it about 5 years ago).
Perhaps I better dig it out!
Pity you can't reset the EAS from the console "Check Control" menu.
You need another disk, check your PM in a couple mins, it actually on the same disk as the Freelander....
A diog kit will also allow you to test the valves, (Fault mate and IIDTool do, pretty sure Allcomms does too), esentially you can "inflate Front Right" to show whether the valve will respond to an ECU command or not.
hey mate,
that block under the front drivers side footwell liner is the front crosslink valve, and it is VERY expensive for what it is. I think it was something like $450 last time I checked as I was convinced at first mine was the issue when I bought my car.
I dont know how the system works, but at rest quite often my front bags seem to be crosslinked, ie coupled to each other, and no pressure in the lines going back to the central vavle block, which is how you have described yours.
if you need a copy of L322 rave let me know.
Happy to help out if I can.
I've been using the IIDTool and very happy with it .So recommended but there are other tool out there that will also work as Harlie has said. But think you will need to reset ECU before anything will work. As for me I'd be getting a complete pair of front struts ( If thats what the problem is ) once one goes the other will surely follow. Shockers dont last forever & at 130,000 must be getting to the end of their lives.
Wrote a nice long reply last night then just as I hit send BOOM Computor down .:censored::censored::oops2: But the discusion has moved on since then
Gary
I had a read of RAVE on the air suspension, but it is not that helpful for troubleshooting IMHO.
On thing that I read is that you can put the strut back on, but you must support the car all the time before reinflating the strut. I read this as you leave the car on a jack before starting up and then remove the jack later.
In your position I would make up a connection to the airbag and inflate it with a compressor ( in water) to see if it leaks. Place a ratchet strap around it to simulate the vehicle .
I would also check the line from where it leaves the distribution block to see if the problem is not physical.
If you have done those checks and there is nothing wrong physically then you have a system problem. I guess the next suspect would be the solenoid for switching the airlines. I would disconnect the plug and momentarily touch a 12v to one terminal and earth the other. If it clicks odds are it is OK. It must be able to take quite a bit of current to operate a solenoid but the question is if it is 5V or 12V. The result should be that the yellow pipes or blocked then open or vice versa.
I think its function is to only switch and so it should not have a valve that prevents air coming through, that would be in the distribution manifold.
Regards Philip A
I would not be connecting any current to a solenoid unless you are dead sure what it uses to switch, some of the systems are even 'Hall effect'.Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipA
If you have access to (jsp) a diog kit then, fit the strut back on (jack still under), read faults, if nothing obviously major then clear the faults, turn the key on and let the system check for issues, if it’s happy start it up to see if the EAS system will operate (There’s a chance it will just level the car out like nothing has happened). Then chase the leak.
If it's not happy (or there was an obvious fault code returned the first read you would be here already) then read the fault codes, they are usually helpfull - use the testing functions to send a signal to 'Raise' the corner in Question. You should then be able to see tank pressure, compressor temp, valve status ect ect ect ect. You can then use the analytical process mentioned above (eg if it clicks but no air check for blockages…): This is exactly why the diagnostic gear have testing functions, so there is no need to short/jump circuits to test.. Currently the biggest issue is that the system is Inactive, you can't diognose anything in that state, and you sure as hell want to know why it "thinks" there is a problem (real or not).
Kinda pointless testing the cross link valve at this stage. You also can't just switch (short/jump) one solenoid to provide or remove air to a corner; you have to open the solenoid for the corner in question + the supply solenoid, (or exhaust solenoid to deflate). There is only one supply and one exhaust solenoid not one each corner. (Use the diog kit) Last time I read RAVE for EAS info was about 18 months ago, I thought it was quite clear and easy to understand.