Incidentally, I just acquired a T4 kit to use on my D2 so providing I can get the software working I may shortly be able to do the coding for any L322 owners around Melbourne as well.
Sorry to hear that Salty1960 but they did have one with the correct frequency. But not the one you bought. Not sure if you got the right one if you could swap transponders ??
Thanks ariddell for that info & that when you work things out you will be able to program these keys. Well done
Gary
I got a T4 Mobile+ with the various cables, I think it does most 1996-2004 Land Rover and MG/Rover but don't know about BMW.
I've also got a VCM which does 2005+ Land Rover, Jaguar and some Fords I think.
Oh, and a VAG-COM for VW, and an ELM327 bluetooth module for generic OBD2 on anything else.
Spot the geek.![]()
I can successfully program my old key to the car and the remote locks now operate, so the wife is happy, but;
The new Key has been confirmed as the US type 315mHz.
It doesn't respond to the hold lock button and press three times whilst holding my mouth in a funny position. - - This is consistent with advice in this thread. So I believe I can never use it for remote access on my Oz Range Rover.
Now that I have it I might consider using it for a backup key (which is what I was looking for) without remote lock ability. - - Now I will keep watching this thread to work out how I can do that for a reasonable cost. Dealer, local Range expert? My RSW Mk3 won't do this will it??
This would be fantastic and I hope its easy to do
Two local independants have advised me the RFID's in the keys can't be written too by the car except for the rolling code, and if you get a new key from landrover it will work without any need for a diag unit as landrover put in one of the bcm's known RFID codes, and the only reason a diag unit is needed is to lockout the missing keys so they wont work anymore as landrover assumes they are lost/stolen.
But if you can write the RFID to the key from the bcm then this is great!
2007/2002/2000/1994/1993/1988/1987/1985/1984/1981/1979/1973 Range Rover 1986 Wadham Stringer
and a Nissan Cube............
South Australia.
So, went and had a chat to the Dealers today to ask about how they code a key when you buy one off them - no help at all - they buy the keys from OS, already cut and coded from the VIN. They only have to sync the key to the car when it arrives. $615 for them to supply one...
There has to be another way...
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
Yeah, I'm only going from the new key I bought from the UK for our 08 - I had given them the VIN in advance. When it arrived it wouldn't turn in the ignition till after I had run through the key programming sequence with the diagnostic kit hooked up.
So yeah, am making a few big assumptions on the process as it obviously wrote something back to the key after that sync and admittedly the 02->05 could be totally different.
Either way, ordering the key from Britcar in the UK and syncing it up when it got here worked a treat and was a lot less than buying from a local dealer. http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php?xProd=104036 is their link for the earlier L322 key.
Cheers,
Al
This is just a brief summary and is dumbed down a bit as I don't have the typing skills to go right into it.
As I understand it, there are 2 systems in the BMW (2002-2006?) L322 keys:
1. The central locking - all this does is unlocks and locks the car - in Australia it uses 433Mhz radio, in the US it's 315Mhz and an antenna on one of the rear windows - the frequency must match whatever the car is.
All this does is open the car, nothing else.
2. The EWS (Immobiliser system). This uses a self-contained transponder chip which looks like a tiny block of grey/black plastic sitting inside the key which contains an electronic circut with memory, an antenna, and a capacitor(think of it as a small rechargable battery). this chip has 10 (i think) codes programmed into it that "roll". The EWS ECU in the car has space for 10 keys, and I think 6 are pre-programmed into it during car manufacture, basically when the key is inserted in the ignition, an antenna around the key in the console transmits some data to the key transponder, it replys with some other codes, and the ECU compares them with the stored values from when the car was made, if all is well, it starts etc.
To get a new key there are a 3 ways to do it (this is ignoring the central locking, or getting the key cut physicaly:
1. using special equipment, the ECU is removed and "read", this data is then used to program a blank transponder to "become" one of the 6 pre-programmed keys.
2. Again, using special equipment, reading the values in a non-blank transponder, and programming it's information into the ECU, so the car will respond to the new key (this can replace a pre-programmed key "space" or be a new one.
3. Buy one from the dealer network. This is where the 6 pre-programmed "spaces" are important. there is a database of all VINs with the 6 transponder details in it for each VIN. they will send out a key (pre-cut too)which has a transponder in it programmed to one of the 6 "spaces" -they should also have details on how many keys have been issued, and allocate the next one available. this is why if you were to program your ECU to a new key, you should start with one of the empty spaces, so if in the future you were to sell the car, and the new owner bought another key, the 6 original spaces are still there.
There are some quite cheap units on the net coming out of china that can do this stuff, but the ECU has to be removed from the car to be read, they can't read the info through the K-bus.
I'm thinking of buying one, and trying to program in one of those cheap keys on ebay, but money is a bit tight at the moment.
I hope that this helps clear things up a little bit?
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