Thread: Dual batteries?

How about the right hand side where the cubby hole is. If you remove the cubby a battery will fit perfectly. Most dual battery installs I've seen put the battery there. Here's a good link.
Dual Battery Installation for Range Rovers

Cheers
Pat.

Get a dual battery kit from Traxide, he's a sporsor on here. Lots of knowledge

Gary

Yep, I have done it on mine - I have fitted 2 batteries into the RHS cubby hole. Wiring is a snap - there is a huge 100 amp supply running to the rear fuse box, and in mine, there was a spare maxi fuse holder - I have wired them through that, then down to the batteries. Works a treat.

Cheers - Gav

Link to my install below contains a pic of the Fuse box connections Gav mentions. Acording to RAVE that Maxi Fuse and connection is unused on all varients.

I was advised not to use the rear fuse box and run a dedicated twin cable from the front but that is simply not needed. I’ve measured over 30amps going into the second battery and If the battery is really low, after a couple minutes of running V is over 14 - so loss is not an issue. Make a good earth connection, use 13mm2 wires. Performs flawlessly.

Dual battery connection

Hi Folks and at long, LONG last I have finally begun putting a Dual Battery kit together that is specifically intended for the L322 Range Rover, and this post is just to see what sort of interest there is for a kit for L322 RRs.

The kit will be fairly easy to fit although you will need to dismantle some of the rear cargo area, to fit the battery, but the electrics are very straightforward.

The kit will be around the $200 mark and will have all cabling needed and this will all be cut to exact size, crimped and heat shrink fitted.

The kit will contain cables, a set of battery terminal clamps and a short 2 wire loom to rewire the rear power socket from the cranking battery to the auxiliary battery, a circuit breaker to protect the battery to battery circuit and an In-Lin fuse to protect the Accessories output and all pre-wired.

The main difference from any other potential set up is the introduction of a new DUAL ISOLATOR, the DT90.

The DT 90 is actually two isolators in one and is being specifically programmed for this new kit.

The new DT90 Isolator has the standard 90 amp Cranking Battery to Auxiliary Battery operation, but it also has a 30 amp Accessories Power Supply output.

The Accessories output is controlled by a microprocessor which monitors both batteries so both the Cranking Battery and the Auxiliary Battery are protected against over discharging.

Like the SC80 and USI-160, if the common voltage of the batteries reaches 12.0v ( 50% SoC ), the cranking battery is isolated but the Accessories Output continues to provide power to any accessories until the Auxiliary battery reaches 11.6v ( 20% SoC ). This is a safe cut-off voltage for any deep cycle battery.

The new DT90 is only slightly larger than a pack of cards which will make it much easier to fit.

The L322 kit will also include a special “Z” terminal to make it easy to connect to the cable in the rear of the L322.

The kit does not include a battery hold down bracket be cause of the different size batteries that could be installed.

Sounds good! I have the batteries fitted in the back, but currently connected all the time - when I want to isolate them, I pull the fuse out I have wired them up through. Let us know when you have it ready to go, I'll be in for one for sure.

Cheers - Gav

Yep, I'm keen if it's available before mid aug, my battery is mounted and ready for the wiring.

Yep Im in too.
A few noob questions, sorry in advance if they're dense:

1. Have you got a pic of the microprcssr display?
2. Would you need electrical training to install? Sound pretty easy to me
3. Do you have a qld workshop that could install as well, if so what's the cost?
4. What battery have you put in the rear of yours? What would you recommend?

Thanks for your help.