L322 Dead Battery?

**Daniel** · 8th August 2012, 05:22 AM

Originally Posted by 33chinacars

Had a quote today for a genuine LR battery for my TD6 from a LR dealer. $400. 110 Ah & ??? CCA. How does this compare to what others have been Quoted

Gary

Trade price in January 2012 was $360 + GST.
Retail was around $440 + GST.
It should be the white poly cased Varta battery.
I can get the part number off my invoice if you like.

**33chinacars** · 8th August 2012, 04:37 PM

Thanks Daniel. so looks like a good price then

Gary

**Daniel** · 13th August 2012, 10:41 AM

I've checked and can report -

my 2005 L322 td6 has a white LR battery - 850 cca 110 ah 205 RC (DIN 120)
my 2007 L322 tdv8 has a black LR battery - 950 cca 90 ah 150 RC (DIN 90)

The tdv8 has extra ECUs in the battery bay making the DIN90 the largest that can be fitted. Obviously this is a compromise as it does not take long to flatten the battery when undertaking diagnosis wil key in position 2.

**RangieBit** · 13th August 2012, 04:19 PM

That's useful info Daniel.

Seems that the info on the Century site may be correct after all for the current models (DIN 90).

Though I'm still rather dubious about the CCA rating for the battery they suggest. My feeling is that you can never have enough amps when trying to start a large-ish diesel.

Cheers,
Iain

**Daniel** · 13th August 2012, 06:46 PM

Originally Posted by RangieBit

That's useful info Daniel.

Seems that the info on the Century site may be correct after all for the current models (DIN 90).

Though I'm still rather dubious about the CCA rating for the battery they suggest. My feeling is that you can never have enough amps when trying to start a large-ish diesel.

Cheers,
Iain

Yes although a v8 is a lot easier to start than a 6 which in turn is a lot easier to start than a 4.

I haven't looked into the Evoque to see how the start on demand etd4 works?
They say that it is hardly noticeable when taking off from the lights!

tassiedisco · 15th November 2014, 07:13 AM

Originally Posted by RangieBit

Hi again James,

Not sure about the 12.7V thing. My old battery (the one I replaced last year) had a reading of a little under 12V (about 11.8 I vaguely recall) at one stage and this managed to start the car, if only just. My replacement battery is an Amaron silver-calcium jobby that matched the original battery spec.

The voltage itself is a good beginning but what is important in a battery for starting (particularly a diesel) is the CCA rating. This is the output that the battery can sustain during starting operations. I think the spec for the L322 suggests a CCA of 750A or better, with a RC rating of 160 or better. The CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) rating gives an indication of the amount of power the battery can deliver under stress (such as starting) while the RC (Reserve Capacity) gives an indication of how long the battery can maintain a constant moderate load (such as running all the ECU's and devices in a modern car).

I think the minimum spec is about a DIN90 battery, with a DIN120 battery preferred. I'm sure that the battery you have measures up to the specification levels.

As to needing to reset the computers, I am not sure what your friend is talking about here. If he means that all the ECUs need to be reset after replacement of a main battery then that is not the case. My battery was removed and replaced without even having to recode the radio (though I did have to reset the clock). I did get the "Air Susp Inactive" message but as indicated previously this is a known situation and was an easy fix anyway.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,
Iain

G'day. (Don't be fooled by my username...I now have an L322 TD6.) You mention that the "Air susp inactive" message is an "easy fix". My RR has this error message and the suspension seems to be stuck on max. height. The car still drives perfectly and there doesn't seem to be any other problems. What's the "easy fix"?

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