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All go now. :D:D Reverse filled inline pump. Refilled fuel filter & IP. Cycled ignition a few times, pump sounded different as if it was working this time . Fired into life first go. :):):).
Still got F & C issues. Changes on touch screen but not dash. Both have same numerical value just F & C chance . Didn't disconect battery for service as was only changing filters ;)
Gary
Gary thats good news, any further ideas how the pump had no fuel ?
Laurie
Daniel
Your comment is concerning! Dont EVER continually crank the starter for long periods of time...
There is a simple priming sequence for starting a TD5 that has run out of fuel.
Extended cranking will damage the Starter.
BTW - A better suited oil for a TD6 is 5W-40 or 10W-40 you aren't doing your engine any favours (or your economy).
Sorry Laurie NFI about thefuel issue. Except it had been awhile since last driven & tank was down to about 1/8 full. Probably enough if I hadn't chanced fuel filters.
As for oil Tombie I used 0W-40.
And No didn't continually crank starter
Thanks to all for your encouragement & help
Gary
PS Tombie though you had left us:wasntme:
cranking - of course - you had me worried, I looked at my post again and read 20s - I don't consider that a long period! BTW what is the "td5 priming sequence"?Quote:
Originally Posted by Tombie
td6 oil - Initial LR dealer service at 25k included synthetic 5W-40 oil and it made no diff at all to anything inc "economy" hence I just went back to the basic corner shop td15W-40. I have 185k on the truck and change oil at 22k-25k and filters every second oil change.
Quote Land Rover. (td5 Discovery / Defender)Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniel
If the vehicle runs out of fuel, or the fuel level is so low that the fuel system draws air into the fuel rail, the fuel rail will need to be purged before the engine will start. This can be achieved by following the procedure below.
If this procedure is carried out on a vehicle that has not run out of fuel or otherwise drawn air into
the fuel rail, it can lead to the engine flooding and failing to start.
Purge
1. Turn the ignition switch off and wait 15 seconds.
2. Turn the ignition switch to position II and wait 3 minutes (this ensures that the fuel system purges all the air from the fuel rail within the cylinder head).
3. Fully depress the throttle pedal.
4. Keeping the throttle pedal fully depressed, crank the engine.
5. As soon as engine speed exceeds 600 rev/min, release the throttle pedal and the ignition switch. The engine must not be cranked continuously for more than 30 seconds at any one time.
6. If the engine fails to start, repeat the above procedure.
Quote:
Originally Posted by harlie
Thanks for that = this is just common sense procedure for any diesel engine anyway and is what I had posted as my procedure other than I said 20s and not 30s. Tombie took issue with me and told me to follow the correct procedure......
Just goes to show that common sense usually works just as good as ......
Some people just want to tell others how to do the @!@!#!#$ obvious! yet another symptom of the nanny state that we live in today - that we call Australia.
Hey Garry, was the engine cold, I image it’s not real warm down in Vic.
Based on what I observed while replacing the inline pump. The inline won’t pump air. If the tank is very low the fuel level is below the mounting height of the inline.
During & after cold start the fuel temp controller actually directs the return fuel directly back to the inline pump (not tank), there is a manifold just behind the inline pump – it's a function that aids in warm up by directing warm fuel straight back to the engine. Air is usually purged through the injectors (engine is not smooth for several sec) or back to the tank via the return. This may be how the inline has been left full of air. Or the fuel line may have just completely drained back to the tank….
Good to see you're back on the road…
Hi Harlie
Thanks you probably hit it in one. When I first tried to start the car fuel tank was down to about 1/8 full. Outside temp was about 12 degrees. Not like the warm days your having. When it wouldn't start was getting bl***y pi##ed off with it to say the least.
Wasn't till I force fed the fuel lines from near the fuel filter that it started. Didn't even run rough. Started as if nothing had happened. Grrrr.
O well something new every day
Only problem now is the mixture of F & C temps on the dash & touch screen. Both units the same "53 " Tried to change it but only C on touch screen changes.
Gary
Hi Gary,
Glad it is up and running. I chatted with Christian & Patrick about your F and C problem - comms between the cluster and the nav screen are very slow (like days :o) at times and the prob could simply be the result of a flat battery. It should then go away on its own in time. You can also force a reboot by entering the cluster's 'hidden menu' and hitting 'reset' IIRC (don't have a link and have to go to bed... sorry :p Post if you can't find info)
Hi Daniel,Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniel
You are right in being skeptical with new products - and we are certainly not infallible. But we are more than a bunch of enthusiastic amateurs and do our very best to make sure no faulty items are delivered to end users. Amongst other items, we also have a relatively large group of beta testers including Gary... :)
Despite the fact that it is new, we believe that the IIDTool is reliable and dependable. :D