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Thread: TD6 Service / Now wont START

  1. #1
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    TD6 Service / Now wont START

    Did a service on my TD6. Oil, Fuel, Air, filters & pollen filter. Flattened battery trying to start it. Recharged battery. Every thing worked O'k before service ???
    There would appear to be no fuel in new fuel filter. I can hear fuel pump underside of car running. Fuel tank was a bit down so put more fuel in, now over 1/2 full. No difference. Line off fuel filter & can hear it gurgling but still no fuel. Tried to suck fuel through with air compressor. Still no go. Fuel pump runs for about 20 seconds then shuts off. Turn Ignition off & on again same thing.

    Also reset service indicator reads 22,000 kms. Is that normal ??

    And have Temp in F on dash & C in touch screen ???

    Cleared all faults with IIDTool Not that there were any that would cause any of these problems.

    HELP

    Gary

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    What's the fuel priming process for a TD6, should be in the owners manual. If this doesn't work I'd suspect the new filter, did you blow through it before you installed it ?, it may be blocked or not sealing correctly so air is getting in.

    Don't know anything specific to TD6 for common faults/processes.

    Deano

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    Doesn't seem to prime properly. Now what new secondary fuel pump ??

    Gary

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    Gary
    Have you locked the car after doing the service ? The old Td5 sometimes didn't start after working on it opening doors etc. Did master lock and then unlock, seems to be linked to the security programme !
    Might be worth a try.

    Laurie

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    Quote Originally Posted by 33chinacars View Post
    Doesn't seem to prime properly. Now what new secondary fuel pump ??

    Gary
    No. Check what you've done. The chances that the fuel pump has failed at the same time as your work is slim.
    The fuel pump running for 20 secs or so is normal, it's a safety thing, you don't want fuel to be pumping with ign. on in the case of an accident and the engine stopped.
    I'd be following whatever LR say in the book re priming and going on from there. Check the new fuel filter install.

    Deano

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    If no fuel comes out at the fuel filter inlet just track back to the pump, its pretty easy to get to the out of tank inline pump under the back of the car, crack a line there and see if fuel's comming out of the tank and or the inline pump.

    When my inline pump went he intank ones still had enough push to start the car and let it idle and drive somewhat slowly at low revs and get home, and when tested the inline pump had failed competely, so somethings amis in your system.

    2007/2002/2000/1994/1993/1988/1987/1985/1984/1981/1979/1973 Range Rover 1986 Wadham Stringer
    and a Nissan Cube............
    South Australia.

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    Thanks Guys

    Have blown & sucked thru filter. Filter doesn't seem to be a problem. Tried to suck thru from tank. No go. Even used kero gun to try and suck thru. Also had line off filter trying to get a flow. After a lot of mucking around only a bit of a dribble.
    Did lock car overnight before trying to start ?
    Will have another go tommorrow when battery charge again

    Gary

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    Quote Originally Posted by 33chinacars View Post
    Did a service on my TD6. Oil, Fuel, Air, filters & pollen filter. Flattened battery trying to start it. Recharged battery. Every thing worked O'k before service ???
    There would appear to be no fuel in new fuel filter. I can hear fuel pump underside of car running. Fuel tank was a bit down so put more fuel in, now over 1/2 full. No difference. Line off fuel filter & can hear it gurgling but still no fuel. Tried to suck fuel through with air compressor. Still no go. Fuel pump runs for about 20 seconds then shuts off. Turn Ignition off & on again same thing.

    Also reset service indicator reads 22,000 kms. Is that normal ??

    And have Temp in F on dash & C in touch screen ???

    Cleared all faults with IIDTool Not that there were any that would cause any of these problems.

    Gary
    Not familiar with "IIDTool" - I use Hawkeye - perhaps your "IIDTool" has flashed one of the ECUs with an error code to prevent start?? The °F setting gives me the clue that your "IIDTool" has played around with the td6 ECUs and done something that it should not have. I'd be sorting that issue out first with a diagnostic tool that is reliable and dependable.

    Yes, the normal oil change interval for a td6 is 22k. I've had mine since new and usually change oil every 25k or thereabouts. I use normal td 15w40 oil - $3.50 per litre.

    Mine has 185k and I have only changed fuel filter once on it since new after I clogged up the filter with some bio fuel that went solid in winter.

    I'm intrigued that others are having feed pump problems - I follow advice given by an old diesel mechanic - a cup full of secondhand ATF into each tank full - modern diesel is low sulphur or even ultra low sulphur and all fuel components thereby lack lubrication normally provided by suphur in the fuel.

    Did it run at all after service? If yes, then it ran on the fuel in the IP and then got it from your filter. You need to disconnect the output hose of your fuel filter and see that it is delivering fuel to the IP - if it is then it is simply a matter of cranking until you prime the IP.

    Normally on such electric feed pump diesels one replaces the fuel filter full of fuel and then disconnects the filter output hose, turns on ignition to check that fuel is flowing out of new filter with no air bubbles and then reconnects and all is OK.

    My old D2 td5 needs about 5 minutes of cranking if I run out of fuel. It is a process of letting the pump run for it's alloted 20s, turn off for 20 s, crank for 20s, turn off and then repeat the same process over and over until it fires.

    Lastly do not rely on a recharged battery - when my 6 year old battery started to die last winter no amount of charging helped. I simply removed the RR battery and put loosely in its place (as a temp measure only) a small new battery and the RR fired up instantly. An L322 requires a full 12.5 v to start - that is why a 110 Ah 850CCA battery of fitted - when you turn your key on all sort so high load electronics are fired up and an undersized battery or dying original battery will not do the job. Jumper leads (from experience) will make no difference if the battery is not to specs.

    Not sure where you are but a cold battery (<20°C) will be proportionally less effective at colder temps.

  9. #9
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    Thanks Daniel

    But didn't run after filter change. Have cycled ignition a number of time with fuel line off, no flow.

    As for the F & C issue that happened before plugging the IIDTool

    Gary

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    Quote Originally Posted by 33chinacars View Post
    Thanks Daniel

    But didn't run after filter change. Have cycled ignition a number of time with fuel line off, no flow.

    As for the F & C issue that happened before plugging the IIDTool

    Gary
    Just stating the obvious, but if no fuel flow then no start!

    If the °C changed to °F during the service then something electrical happened.

    It is normal practice to disconnect the vehicle battery during and servicing action just to be on the safe side from stray currents/static electricity discharges etc.

    I would be checking that indeed your fuel pump is pumping and it is not the EAS compressor or something else purring away in the rear of the truck.

    You'll need to get some fuel pressure at the IP at the engine before doing any further cranking.

    This is all dependent on your diagnostic tool properly reading all the codes. If as you say there are no fault codes then your tool is not working properly as it would for a start issue a fault code that there is no fuel pressure at the IP.

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