Thread: L322: Remove calipers to change front pads?

No pics, but the caliper comes off in one piece - there are no clips holding it together. The only clip I can think of would be the anti rattle clip that keeps the pads jiggling around. It should be fairly apparent how they come off and go back on. Sorry I can't look at the moment, as SWMBO has the car. If no one else has posted be the time she gets home, I'll take a look.

Cheers - Gav

I'm with Gav on this one.

Haven't had to change the brake pads on my beast (yet!) but have changed plenty of BMW ones.

The only spring clip there is the anti-rattle one as correctly stated above.

You may have to squeeze the piston apart a little to get the pad(s) out. While it can be done with the caliper in situ if you're practised and very careful, the easiest and quickest way is to release the caliper assembly. Only remove one bolt so you can swing it clear of the disc. Then you can prize out the pads (they have clasps on the back) and reinsert the new ones. Swing the caliper back into place and you're done.

If you have a copy of RAVE, Dave (Incisor) has them available in the shop if not, the writeup and actual process is straightforward.

I think there was a tutorial with pictures on RangeRovers.net, so you might try looking there too.

Cheers,
Iain

Good video from RWSolutions for disc and pad replacement.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rq9yYxtWqB4&feature=related]Range Rover MKIII - Replace Brake Pads and Rotors - YouTube[/ame]

One thing I do with all pad replacements which I didn't see here was; I open the brake fluid reservoir but leave the cap on top, just keep an eye on how much fluid is returned when the pistons are pushed back for the new pads (don't want to spill it over everything)

Laurie

Followup question. When calipers removed do you need to clamp the flexible hose to stop piston popping out? Jim

Originally Posted by jx2mad

Followup question. When calipers removed do you need to clamp the flexible hose to stop piston popping out? Jim

No, not unless your planning to push on the brake pedal while the caliper is off - (Don't do this )

You will need to push the piston back in before refitting the pads. Easiest way is to crack the bleed nipple and use a pair of vice grips or multi grips to push the pistons in. Don't forget to top up the brake fluid when your all done.

Cheers - Gav

The common sense method of disc pad wear monitoring is done by drop in fluid reservoir level. The pad wear sensor is the expensive way to monitor pad wear as it needs to be replaced once the warning lamp comes on.

In other words never top up your reservoir as when you press the old pads apart to replace with new ones the level is restored. You should not remove the cap when doing this as the reservoir cap has a diaphram built in that prevents air contact with the fluid to prevent moisture absorption.

As with all disc brake systems before doing anything use a lever carefully to prise apart the old pads as far they will go. The rest is simple. Undo the caliper holding bolts and replace the pads using the retaining clips/springs.

Originally Posted by Daniel

The common sense method of disc pad wear monitoring is done by drop in fluid reservoir level. The pad wear sensor is the expensive way to monitor pad wear as it needs to be replaced once the warning lamp comes on.

In other words never top up your reservoir as when you press the old pads apart to replace with new ones the level is restored. You should not remove the cap when doing this as the reservoir cap has a diaphram built in that prevents air contact with the fluid to prevent moisture absorption.

As with all disc brake systems before doing anything use a lever carefully to prise apart the old pads as far they will go. The rest is simple. Undo the caliper holding bolts and replace the pads using the retaining clips/springs.

Your kidding right? brake wear sensor is $8! The reason I undo the bleed nipple is so that I don't push fluid back through the system the wrong way. Not sure on Rangies, but on other cars I've worked on this can cause damage to check valves and abs components... I could be wrong, but I didn't think the system monitored the brake fluid level - apart from a low level switch - which is usually a worry if they go off - generally not worn brakes, but a leak somewhere...

Originally Posted by bacicat2000

Your kidding right? brake wear sensor is $8! The reason I undo the bleed nipple is so that I don't push fluid back through the system the wrong way. Not sure on Rangies, but on other cars I've worked on this can cause damage to check valves and abs components... I could be wrong, but I didn't think the system monitored the brake fluid level - apart from a low level switch - which is usually a worry if they go off - generally not worn brakes, but a leak somewhere...

Kidding? push fluid back the wrong way???? Now you've got to be kidding me!
Just stop and think what you are saying!
You are telling me that every time you brake the fluid goes and pushes the pads against the discs and then cannot retract? If that was the case your pads would last 100km and you would always have your brakes jammed on full strength!
Just goes to show that a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing.

No body has mentioned fluid level monitoring but of course the RR and every other car on the road has to have that by ADR and has so since the 1970's or thereabouts - look at your instrument warning lamps next time you turn your start key to position 2 before cranking - have you never done that?