Thread: Anderson plug wiring for L322

Greg, we are talking 2012? Heaps of us have done exactly this with the earlier model. The early model has a 100amp feed to the rear, I would think the 2012 would be at least as high but you need to check the handbook - what fuse up front feeds the rear compartment fuse box. You will have variable voltage too so a standard VSR won't do the job, Drivesafe's controller is a little different - I'm not sure exactly what controller is in the engle product, where is he?

Spend the small amount of money for a Traxide dual battery kit. Do it once and do it right.

Originally Posted by harlie

Greg, we are talking 2012? Heaps of us have done exactly this with the earlier model. The early model has a 100amp feed to the rear, I would think the 2012 would be at least as high but you need to check the handbook - what fuse up front feeds the rear compartment fuse box. You will have variable voltage too so a standard VSR won't do the job, Drivesafe's controller is a little different - I'm not sure exactly what controller is in the engle product, where is he?

Thanks Harlie - yes, a 2012 model. I presume the car would have at least a 100amp feed to the rear, which would make redundant the need for a separate such feed all the way from the battery under the bonnet. No idea which fuse up-front feeds the rear compartment, but will check the handbook. (And what is 'VSR' - assume voltage something regulator?)

The Engle box is a smart-charger that takes power from the 180W outlet in the luggage compartment and converts it to a 5amp feed into the Engel battery box. The dual battery (whether installed in situ or portable as in the Engel box) seems to me to be a separate issue from supplying power to the Anderson plug at the rear bumper. I think we can forget about the Engel box (assume it's not there, as for a large amount of time it won't be, it'll be outside, powering the fridge).

I would really just like to know what's involved in taking power from the 100amp supply in the rear compartment (and where to find it) and supplying it to the Anderson plug rather than running it right back from the battery, all the while a) wiring it through the ignition so it's not on all the time, and b) making sure it doesn't foul any other electronics in the car.

PS: Harlie, can't find anything in the handbook about 100amp power supply in the rear compartment. Maybe I'm only having a boy look.

Hi Greg - I would be checking the fuse listing for a 100amp fuse that talks about the rear compartment supply.

This is what I did before drivesafe's kit was available.

Dual battery connection

I used a solenoid switched by ignition (instead of VSR - Voltage Sensitive Relay) so it can run a boat trailer power winch as well. The 40 amp fuse occupies what was an empty slot and the wire is in the factory plug - not sure if you will have an empty, but the kit everyone is using just comes off the main stud - don't forget the fuse - if the trailer has a worn wire you want a fuse to trip.

I later added a battery under the floor that is in parallel with the Andersen plug.

Pretty sure I can find a large photo if wanted.

Concern I have is the variable voltage on the 2012 - not sure how well it will charge a battery on the trailer. I know drivesafe has done some testing on this.

Originally Posted by harlie

Hi Greg - I would be checking the fuse listing for a 100amp fuse that talks about the rear compartment supply.

This is what I did before drivesafe's kit was available.

Dual battery connection

I used a solenoid switched by ignition (instead of VSR - Voltage Sensitive Relay) so it can run a boat trailer power winch as well. The 40 amp fuse occupies what was an empty slot and the wire is in the factory plug - not sure if you will have an empty, but the kit everyone is using just comes off the main stud - don't forget the fuse - if the trailer has a worn wire you want a fuse to trip.

I later added a battery under the floor that is in parallel with the Andersen plug.

Pretty sure I can find a large photo if wanted.

Concern I have is the variable voltage on the 2012 - not sure how well it will charge a battery on the trailer. I know drivesafe has done some testing on this.

Thanks Harlie. I'm now becoming a bit confused, as I don't have a second battery installed in the car, I just want power to the Anderson plug, wired in such a way that it doesn't drain the cranking battery when the car is switched off. I went to Barbagallo's service department this morning to ask them to organise it, but they outsource all such work to AutoSpark, who have already told me they would simply run a 100amp wire straight back from the cranking battery to the Anderson plug.

But I'll take your diagram to them and see what they say to that. I just can't get my head around the fact that this model has been around for years, AutoSpark have done all the dealer's work for this kind of thing, and yet they're scratching their heads.

And not being an electrician myself, I don't want to go DIY and risk blowing computers etc.

Oh, and by the way, looking through my owner's handbook, there's no mention of a 100amp fuse in either the passenger compartment fuse box or the cargo area fuse box. And the fuses in the engine compartment aren't listed, just "only to be tackled by an authorised technician" or similar.

Greg, Why not simply run an Anderson plug lead from the Engel battery ? Assuming it will always be in the car when driving, then it will be continually charging (at 5 amp) which should put eneough into the camper battery to charge it plus top up the Engel itself. Particularly if the camper does not have a frig built in, there will be no discharge when driving. I would also take a 240 v charger so that when staying at van park you could top up. Also I find these days there is always someone around with a generator who is happy to share a little power.
Alternatively I would run the cable direct from the engine battery as recommended by your auto electrician (with a switch and fuse). I have used this successfully and a sign "Battery Switch" taped to the steering wheel reminds me to turn it on and off when needed. I would personally be doubtful about taking a supply from the rear. If the camper battery was flat then it could pull 40 amp or more when connected and this could have some effect on the other equipment serviced by the rear supply.
Peter

Originally Posted by peter g

Greg, Why not simply run an Anderson plug lead from the Engel battery ? Assuming it will always be in the car when driving, then it will be continually charging (at 5 amp) which should put eneough into the camper battery to charge it plus top up the Engel itself. Particularly if the camper does not have a frig built in, there will be no discharge when driving. I would also take a 240 v charger so that when staying at van park you could top up. Also I find these days there is always someone around with a generator who is happy to share a little power.
Alternatively I would run the cable direct from the engine battery as recommended by your auto electrician (with a switch and fuse). I have used this successfully and a sign "Battery Switch" taped to the steering wheel reminds me to turn it on and off when needed. I would personally be doubtful about taking a supply from the rear. If the camper battery was flat then it could pull 40 amp or more when connected and this could have some effect on the other equipment serviced by the rear supply.
Peter

Hell, yet another option:-) Thanks Peter, that sounds very simple and logical. In reality, the only power requirement from the camper battery while stationary is for the LED camp lighting, which draws next to nothing.
The downside, I suppose, is getting power from the Engel battery inside the car to the Anderson plug outside the car, without letting dust in. And will the 'permanently on' cig lighter power supply in cargo area carry enough current to charge both the Engel battery, and the camper battery at the same time? Another question for an auto electrician I guess.

I think I'll probably end up getting power down the back directly from the cranking battery via an isolator switch and be done with it. At least then, I don't have to worry about unplugging the think when stopped.

INTERESTING: I did find out today that trailers with LED brake and indicator lights interfere with the dynamic stability control in the car, apparently because the LEDs don't offer enough resistance for the car's systems to detect there's a trailer being towed. Didn't know that.

Originally Posted by GregMilner

Thanks Harlie. I'm now becoming a bit confused, as I don't have a second battery installed in the car, I just want power to the Anderson plug, wired in such a way that it doesn't drain the cranking battery when the car is switched off.

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Mate - that is exactly what my install does, it turns the Andersen plug off when the ignition is turned off - I added the battery later and is not needed for what you want.

PM me for a phone number if you want to chat.

Originally Posted by GregMilner

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Oh, and by the way, looking through my owner's handbook, there's no mention of a 100amp fuse in either the passenger compartment fuse box or the cargo area fuse box. And the fuses in the engine compartment aren't listed, just "only to be tackled by an authorised technician" or similar.

OK, it is an engine compartment, I've just checked and the details are in the workshop manual, sorry for confusion.

Originally Posted by GregMilner

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And will the 'permanently on' cig lighter power supply in cargo area carry enough current to charge both the Engel battery, and the camper battery at the same time? Another question for an auto electrician I guess.

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What is the cig lighter fused at? Cig lighters are only rated to 10amp, given the small wiring there will be huge voltage loss so it might handle it, but there is a good chance it will blow a 10amp fuse. As mentioned, my multi meter only goes to 20amp and the rear compartment supplies a lot more in my install - the fuse pops in the multimeter