Anderson plug wiring for L322

**drivesafe** · 16th April 2014, 07:32 PM

Hi Greg and I have been following your thread but was keeping out of it.

BUT.

Do not even think of trying to run a new cable through your RR. It took me 7 hours to just run the cable through my 2002 L322 and that was without any of the other parts of the installation that is need to set up a dual battery system.

To run the cable through your RR, you first have to remove the front passenger seat, and that is a huge job in itself.

Just go to the rear fuse panel on the driver’s side in the rear cargo area.

There is a THICK red cable bolted to the centre of the fuse panel.

Make up a RED 6B&S ( 13.5mm2 ) cable with a 6mm eye terminal on it and you can sort out fitting it to the same bolt that holds the red cable.

Then get a length of black 6B&S ( 13.5mm2 ) cable and fit a 10mm eye terminal on this one and you will need a 10M nut.

You can get a good earth at one of the bolts that holds your rear bumper in place.

Just fit your 50 amp Anderson plug on the other end of these two cables, to suit where ever you intend to mount it.

Here is how my kits fit the cable to the fuse panel.

**harlie** · 16th April 2014, 07:39 PM

Hi Greg

The silver item (yellow arrow bottom right of photo) is the solenoid. It switches the Andersen plug off when the ignition is off.

The power is provided to the solenoid by the new red wire in the factory plug (yellow arrow towards top of pic). 13mm2 wire from solenoid to plug at bumper

Fuse is 40amp (pink arrow)

edit: ((As Drivesafe's pic shows the Later L322 uses this plug and fuse))

Ignition switch feed is in the fuse box

The kit from drivesafe that all the other guys use gets power from the stud where the blue arrow is – this is the easiest supply, I just wanted to use the factory fuse block

**make sure you add a fuse!** Wires this size could start a fire if something get pinched/worn ect ect

The extra blue wire (white arrow) is for the trailer brakes, and the tape near the trailer ecu is where i did my trailer wiring mods.

**GregMilner** · 17th April 2014, 03:52 PM

Originally Posted by harlie

Hi Greg

The silver item (yellow arrow bottom right of photo) is the solenoid. It switches the Andersen plug off when the ignition is off.

The power is provided to the solenoid by the new red wire in the factory plug (yellow arrow towards top of pic). 13mm2 wire from solenoid to plug at bumper

Fuse is 40amp (pink arrow)

edit: ((As Drivesafe's pic shows the Later L322 uses this plug and fuse))

Ignition switch feed is in the fuse box

The kit from drivesafe that all the other guys use gets power from the stud where the blue arrow is – this is the easiest supply, I just wanted to use the factory fuse block

**make sure you add a fuse!** Wires this size could start a fire if something get pinched/worn ect ect

The extra blue wire (white arrow) is for the trailer brakes, and the tape near the trailer ecu is where i did my trailer wiring mods.

Harlie and Drivesafe, thanks for that...I much prefer the option of taking power from the rear cargo area than all the way from the battery. A question though - is there an easy, dust-free way to run the cable out to the back of the car from the cargo area fusebox, so it can be fixed under the rear bumper?
And I presume the solenoid is something readily available?

**GregMilner** · 17th May 2014, 05:44 PM

Harlie and Drivesafe, thanks to both, took your photos to a competent sparky and got the job done with no pain at all ( well, apart from $268

Thread: Anderson plug wiring for L322

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