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20th September 2014, 03:52 PM
#1
L322 valve gear. Hydraulic or shim?
Hi Fellas,
Have read the workshop manual several times and still can't work out how the camshaft to valve clearances or lack of them function.
I don't quite understand the auto camshaft system works either?
The new (used) bus L322 4.4 litre 2002 model is a bit on the rattly side in the top end and nobody seems to have much idea why?
To me, this sort of noise has to be investigated, it's just too rattly when the engine gets up to operating temperature.
Starting to miss the pushrod engines already, hey? Guidance sorely needed........
Cheers,
Shirley.
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21st September 2014, 08:42 AM
#2
Shirley
These motors use spring loaded tensioners on the timing chains, it might be time to replace them if one is U/S ? Also obviously while your there check the timing chain !
Something like this ???
[ame=http://youtu.be/3AttgfCuAOk]BMW M62 engine problem - YouTube[/ame]
If it is the VANOS making the noise it could be from wrong grade of oil used in servicing, should use a fully synthetic 5W30 or 5W40. Valves are hydraulic !!!
Chain guides are plastic and do wear, but apparently it is a big job to replace them I think the manual says 15hrs 
You can find other videos relating to these engines at Youtube also.
Also check exhaust manifolds minor leaks on these things have a noise all to them selves 
Laurie
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9th October 2014, 03:32 PM
#3
Hi Laurie,
Had a good look at the service records and all the chains and tensioners were renewed about 30K ago but there is a lot of varnish in the tappet covers and the previous owner was using garbage oil.
There is a possibility that the VANOZ solenoids are either gummed up or faulty although nothing comes up on the diagnostic.
Whether or not the cam timing units were set correctly may also have something to do with it so I have put all new Repsol 5W 40 and a filter in along with two bottles of Lifter Ease" just to see if the VANOZ solenoids come good and then change it again in about 5K. If there is no difference, she might have to have a specialist have a look inside.
Wish me luck darls... Just found that it's got a dodgy O2 sensor on Bank 2 and the Cat on Bank 1 is not too healthy.... Learning real quick.
Thanks buddy,
Shirley....
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11th October 2014, 10:45 AM
#4
Shirley
Before you start on the heads, check the oil filter housing ! I have seen some reports that the non-return valve can play up, dropping oil flow and pressure to the VANOS units, on startup.
Laurie
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16th October 2014, 03:37 PM
#5
Hi Laurie,
Yep! That's what she sounds like..... A diesel, hey?
Next job is to find someone with all the correct special tools that won't bugger everything up fitting the replacement of parts.
I just put eight M6 Helicoils in the tops of the cylinder heads to anchor the coil covers and two of the coil packs. I will need to do a brass insert in the bottom R/H for the No1 coil pack as it's had an M6 and that's been stripped out as well, either that or turn up an M8 to M6 stepped stud for the thing. I have it Locktighted for now with super stud lock as I ran out of time. God there are some butchers in the motor industry.
Coil pack No1 was held in with gravity, a chunk of foam rubber and the plastic cover.
Even that had to have a Helicoil in it as the front bolt was also stripped.
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16th October 2014, 03:47 PM
#6
Hi Laurie,
The valve appears OK. I checked it when I did the last oil change.
Used REPSOL 10W 40 Synthetic and two bottles of Lifter Free to see if it loosens anything up.
The crap that was in it was Kmart special oil, totally black and the filter was original and kind of crushed.
Changed the Plugs as well which also were original although 2 of them were newer. So it looks like the guy had only changed the plugs as they failed.
After that I did a Diagnostic and I had to check it twice but 0 errors. Even the No2 bank No2 sensor was working properly again....
I wonder what the cost of getting the VANOS done will be???
Might have to just turn the radio up a bit more?
Cheers,
Shirley....
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17th October 2014, 01:01 PM
#7
Shirley
Have a look at this thread.
fullfatrr.com - View topic - 4.4 noise
Also have heard of different length dip sticks ?? I don't know if different cars used different capacity sumps, but the quote below is interesting.
"On my first 4.4 I found that if the oil level was anywhere other than at the top of the marker then I would get the rattle."
I hope this helps !
Laurie
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18th October 2014, 11:39 PM
#8
Hi Shirley, I had this enquiry from another customer the other re noise day.........
Quote "I don't suppose you have an inlet camshaft for cylinders 1-4 part number #LGC000200?
Pulled mine apart at the weekend as was still having issues with Vanos etc and found that the grooves machined into the end, and one of the rings, were broken.
I also need the housing that it fits into as the inside of this has been damaged by the bits of metal, part number #LJJ000010 ' unquote
regards,
Mario
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19th October 2014, 10:02 AM
#9
Shirley check your PMs .... re a price on a crated NEW 4.4 AJ
Cheers, Mario
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