Thread: What to look for when purchasing a RR Vogue v8?

So on anyone's recommendations what one would you say is better? the V8 or the diesel? i'm just weighing up my options.

That's the million dollar question. Not sure if there's a right answer, but more along the lines of what suits you better.

Petrol - goes great, sounds awesome, reasonable gearbox - but not perfect. Uses more fuel, engine is more complicated. Smooth, smooth engine that will put a smile on your dial.

Diesel - great engine, long lived, watch out for the gearbox, but with a good rebuild and maintenance will last a while. Good fuel economy for the size of the vehicle. Not as much get up and go as the V8 and doesn't sound anywhere near as good.

I bought the diesel as it was a daily driver at the time. Interestingly the V8's were quite a bit more than the diesel when new, but now it seems the diesel fetches a higher dollar - mainly due to running costs I would imagine.

Confused yet?

I've been researching the L322 recently with a view to buying one soonish. Just seems there is no perfect drivetrain combination until you get to the later V8 diesels and they cost more than I want to spend on something that depreciates as quickly as an L322.

The earlier TD6 is appealing, but comes with that gearbox and harder to get in Vogue spec. To get a decent box you have to get the V8 petrol and I'm not convinced about the longevity of the BMW V8, (through a lack of knowledge rather than an informed opinion). Can't wrap my head around an engine that cant easily be rebuilt if needed, although I did find a place in the UK that seems to rebuild them. I originally thought they were a throw away job once the bores were stuffed.

Then there is the Jag V8 which in 4.4 N.A. guise seems like the petrol engine to get but there are bugger all around and being 06 onwards they cost considerably more.

I'd be interested to hear some first hand opinions on the BMW 4.4 and how reliable they are and what sort of kms you should expect from a well maintained one.

Thanks Guys
yeah running costs don't really phase me as i work away on a 3 and 3 roster so it will only be driven 6 months of the year. i currently have 3 v8's in the garage so i think i will stick to the v8's as you cant beat the rumble of a V8. Now i have to go to the bank and organize some money and start the search.
thanks again guys

Originally Posted by Mr_T

So on anyone's recommendations what one would you say is better? the V8 or the diesel? i'm just weighing up my options.

The V8 diesel . I might be biased .

Below is a checklist from a combination of British Sites !

L322 Buying Guide/ Checklist –

This checklist is not exhaustive and is evolved from a historic post that Matt Stevenson made on Landyzone. Much of this post should be things to check for on any car. Some of the information is common sense. Some of the issues to be alert to are peculiar to the L322 –

1. Full Service History – if the car has been serviced by LR they might not always have stamped the service booklet. You can contact the servicing dealer/ LR customer service to try and obtain the vehicle service record from them.

2. Front Differential – Has the front diff been replaced? This was a factory recall in some cases.

3. Coolant – Check for coolant leaks. The L322 can be prone to this.

4. Fluids – Check all fluid levels over and again.

5. Transmission – The TD6, as just one example, can have transmission problems. Any automatic gearboxes (as with all components) can fail at any time. However, many people seem alert to potential failures from 80,000 miles onwards on pre facelift TD6 in particular. Some people prefer to have the gearbox oil changed in the hope it will prolong the life of the gearbox.

6. Wing Mirrors (A) – If the car has power fold mirrors, when you activate mirror fold, the mirror housings should fold all the way in and unfold all the way out. If a mirror jumps or clicks the motor might need to be replaced.

7. Mirrors ( – When engaging reverse gear, if equipped, the passenger side mirror should dip to show you the kerb and should go back to normal when de-selecting reverse (if the car has this function - not all of them do have it - the function can be switched off/ personal choice).

8. Air Conditioning – Check that the Air Con goes all the way up and all the way down (should be ice cold if working correctly). Enquire as to whether it has ever been serviced and/ or has been used regularly.

9. Heated Seats – Check all heated seats. They have two temperature modes. Make sure they both work (the Vogue has rear heated seats as well).

10. Electric Windows – Should open and close freely (rear windows stop about 10cm before the bottom of the window as a safety feature).

11. Electric Steering Wheel – All steering wheel controls should work including cruise control.

12. Heated Steering – Check that the heated steering wheel button works at both the on and off position (a red light should come on when the button is pressed and you should be able to feel the steering wheel heating up).

13. Electric memory seats – All parts should work and be capable of memorising your favoured seating position.

14. Electric/ Memory steering wheel – It should go up and down/ in and out freely and again be capable of memorising your favoured steering position when you insert the ignition key.

15. Low Range Gearbox – It should work when selected.

16. Hill Descent Control should work when selected – Car should slowly move downhill without need to apply the accelerator or brakes.

17. Media/ Entertainment – Check all front, rear, left and right functions of Sat Nav/ Radio/ TV/ DVD/ CD and remote controls if equipped. Has the car been upgraded to digital TV?

18. Bluetooth/ telephone functionality – Ask the seller to demonstrate pairing your mobile telephone and the telephone working properly (some reports suggest that cars equipped with the Venture Cam – housed in the upper glovebox – can interfere with the telephone functionality).

19. General Electrics – Check all including a check of front/ rear wipers and the headlight wash.

19A. Front Windscreen – Check to ensure that the heated front windscreen does not suffer from failed elements.

19B. Reverse Camera – Check that the rear reverse camera situated within the tailgate roof spoiler (and front camera if fitted) is working properly. Images can be grainy and/ or the system can fail completely.

19C. Front & Rear Parking Sensors (PDC) – Carefully examine each circular parking sensor to ensure that they have not collided with any objects and have been displaced ('pushed in'). Check to ensure that when the car is in use that all of the parking sensors are working properly/ emitting an audible warning.

20. Failing seals/ water ingress – Check for water damage in the passenger cabin/ around door seals. Check for water ingress/ damage in the boot area including where the car’s electrical equipment is sited in the left compartment of the boot space (Factory fit DVD units are housed there too).

21. Headlights – Pre facelift Headlights can overheat causing parts of the unit to melt (this is intended to mean cars before 2007 MY but some 2007 MY have reportedly been affected).

22. Rear Lights – Can suffer from water ingress/ inner condensation (one reported fix is to pinhole drill the lens cover).

23. Air Suspension – Should raise and lower and hold the selected position on all settings.

24. Suspension Airbags – The condition should be checked particularly if you are buying privately and/ or have no warranty (they can be checked by viewing them underneath the car).

25. Windscreen Scratches – Check the windscreen carefully for chips, cracks and scratches from the wiper arms or other objects. Windscreens are expensive to replace. Enquire as to your standard car insurance excess/ level of cover you have and/ or whether any warranty including ‘free MOT cover’ would cover a replacement windscreen in the event, for example, of a scratched windscreen being deemed a UK MOT fail.

26. Supercharger oil – Some people feel it is a good idea to change the oil at around the 70,000 mile mark (this might assist http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jaguar-Eaton-M11...0676739255)

27. Supercharged L322 (other reported ‘potential weak points’ which you can research on this/ other forums) –

• Rear brake callipers
• Transmission cooler
• Suspension arm rubbers
• Coolant pump (can be incorrectly wired on the supercharger)
• Radiators leaks/ failure
• Battery problems

28. Corrosion & Bodywork - Carefully examine the car inside and out, in good light for signs of corrosion, failing paintwork and previous repairs (including 'smart repairs' where the paint finish might not have blended well with the original finish). Ensure that close attention is paid to concealed areas including all door edges, tailgate edges, bonnet edges and all frames/sills. Look for signs of blistering on the black window frame trims and carefully examine all wheel arches, in particular the rear arches (one suggestion might be to take a cotton or microfibre cloth with some Tardis degreaser/ white spirit type product to enable dirty concealed areas to be wiped clean during the viewing so that corrosion is not masked from sight, for example on the rear wheel arches which you should inspect with the rear doors open for full sight of the arches).

T

Td6 Gearbox Check
make sure the box is smooth through the gears and when down changing manually, if its not the valve block in the box is likely worn which means a box out job to repair.

See if at 90kh it holds steady and doesn't slip or rev up or down any amount as it should lock up nicely at 60kh and up as long as you don't put too much pressure on the loud pedal, but above 80kh IIRC it nearly totally locks up unless you belt to the floor it. By lock up i mean the torque convertor. Again if this is gone or starting to slip i believe the box has to come off to fix it and the box needs to be flushed as it will no doubt be full of clutch debris and thus may still need replacing as well Sad circa $5.5k I think.

A lot of the rear wheel arch corrosion mentioned here, I would think is related to salted roads in the English winter ?????

Laurie

Thanks for that Laurie, i will make sure i check all that stuff if i do the inspection myself, i will more than likely have to get it done by a mechanical workshop as i will more than likely have to bye interstate as there is not too many on the market here in south oz.

I'm looking at a HSE v8 petrol with 126,ooo ks. It's hadgearbox replaced and serviced regularly . In Java black with cream interior . Going for around $25 k.
In Sydney. Icant u de stand why they are so much cheaper than the Sport . When they cost a lot,ore to start with. After the defenders ans series 1 it will be nice to have a bit of luxury as long as I don't have to spend too much time under it rather than in it.
Mike