Thread: Latest Jack recommendations

I used my good workshop jack at home and packed that when travelling a long way and remote places, and the RACV when out and about locally. . Thankfully never needed to change a tyre when out.

If you can find an Iveco Daily jack from a wrecker, it'll do the job. Made by the same mob as the Defender/Disco red jack, but 3.5T cap. 141mm to 400mm height range. I got one from here for about $110 del'd.
Don.

Thanks.

I have a red D1 jack. Too short on its own and too tall if on a block.

Does this one fit the bill with a piece of hardwood under as jacking plate?
https://www.blackwoods.com.au/part/0...escopic-hyd-2t
Capacity (kg) 2000
Height Max (mm) 418
Height Min (mm) 181
Stroke (mm) 201
Mass (kg) 5.7

Alternatively can you jack using the suspension arm like on the D4?

Cheers,
Scott

Thanks Scott, I tried looking for that one.

Unfortunately the jack needs to be capable about 460mm height to get the wheel off the ground using the side jacking point. The car sits quite high with this amount of lift as the wheel really hangs.

Part of the problem is I'm not really sure what can be used for a jacking point, other than designated points, subframe and suspension arms at the back which look substantial enough.

Originally Posted by rar110

Thanks Scott, I tried looking for that one.

Unfortunately the jack needs to be capable about 460mm height to get the wheel off the ground using the side jacking point. The car sits quite high with this amount of lift as the wheel really hangs.

Part of the problem is I'm not really sure what can be used for a jacking point, other than designated points, subframe and suspension arms at the back which look substantial enough.

Apart from the jacking points, yes the subframe and suspension arms and the entire arse of the car can be lifted from the diff - but like most points you need a big jack to do this - I used this point when I had to do something on both sides like the brakes, etc - I have a large trolley jack that would pick it up high enough to get my jack stands under the rear jacking points.

Once you've done that you get clear access to the entire rear suspension, brakes, everything.

Thanks Gav, yes the rear is substantial. There are good options there which lift the wheel nicely. The front is a different story. The only clear options at the front are a jacking point or subframe. However neither lifts the wheel.

You can lift a front wheel from the lower suspension arm if you drop it to access height first. It flattens out the arm enough for a trolley jack plate to lift just where there is a recess in the arm. Again, shortly followed by a jack stand, but that's where I always jacked the front from.

This way you only need to to pump the jack a few times to get the wheel off the ground.