Really important to stick to exactly the grade and specification of oil in the manual. It's just not worth the grief you can bring on yourself by using cheapies.
I'm thinking of doing a service at home on my 2010 3.6 TDV8... Just Oil and filters.
Can I ask what oil is best type and brand, and I'm probably limited to the local car parts shops as want to do this weekend. And how much is needed.
Also if I do a change of transfer box oil how much is needed.
Thanks in advance.
Really important to stick to exactly the grade and specification of oil in the manual. It's just not worth the grief you can bring on yourself by using cheapies.
And quality filters. Next service the mechanic is going to do an engine oil flush as this is what my oil looks like straight after an oil change.
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L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
Track Trailer ARN 200-117
REMLR # 137
For the TC - buy the oil from the dealers - they don't use much and it's not too expensive. I've found it difficult to find what the after maket equivalent is for the TC and diffs.
With the engine, again, buy your filters from the dealer or good quality afternarket - there's some cheap junk available on line in the for, of cheap service kits - don't use these.
Find out what the spec of the engine oil is and find the correct equivalent - don't just bang any old synthetic in there thinking it will be ok.
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
Oil always goes dark quickly as it picks up gunk in the engine, which is a good thing and shows the oil is doing it's job. Does it smell burnt?
If in doubt change oils and filters regularly. They are cheap compared with repairs.
Sent from my SM-G900I using AULRO mobile app
The oil is new, it just picks up a lot of residual particles trapped around the motor. I'd rather they were all picked up in oil and drained off. Another option is do a couple of quick succession oil changes with cheap oil, finishing with quality oil.
L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
Track Trailer ARN 200-117
REMLR # 137
Oil is cheap. Comparitively...
Jc
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
Castrol Magnatec Professional A5 5W30 is the LR recommended engine oil but Shell, Penrite and Nulon all produce an oil that they say meets the preferred Ford spec WSS M2C913-B or -C.
1L bottles of "LR Special Transfer case oil" can be purchased either from LR or from outlets who source the oil from LR UK. For the front diff and rear diff if not an e-diff LR recommends Castrol Syntrax Longlife 75W90 (readily available in 1L bottles) whilst an e-diff uses Castrol BOT720 which can be obtained from LR and from other sources that import from the UK. I don't understand why the e-diff doesn't use the same oil as the TC other than a reason for LR to charge the earth for it, although the TC pumps oil whereas the e-diff does not.
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
Where I am I don't have much choice thus I use the closest which is 5W-40 Synthetic. However, I'm changing this and the filter every 4500-5000klms.
Pete, I'd be interested to know how many K's you have on that oil in the picture?
I have been told given the high compression in a diesel the oil turns black in under 100klms, not sure if that is true?
Cheers, Jerry
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