Thread: Turbo Failure

Did you get any warnings the turbo was about to. crap itself or did it just happen? Do you know what caused the failure? Was it a split intercooler hose?
From what I now understand if the turbo Chernobyl'd itself there is a good chance the engine has eaten some turbo which is not good. Personally I struggle to see how bits of turbo actually get through the intercooler apparently this is what happens. Cheers Marty

The general consensus of UK repairers seems to be that the engine wont be damaged, just advise to replace both as the 2nd wont be far away from expiring.

From what I've read oil seal failure is one big reason for failure. If you stop before the oil is all gone and befor the fan starts self destructing you could do as Graeme says. In one recent case I read about only one pot was affected.
Not cheap at about $2k each.

is this a lack of servicing? sorry Chris,, 317K doesnt sound a lot,, for V8 Diesel,,
I gather you've owned/worked it for a while,,
just trying to find a reason,, like you

This is the first major failure I have heard of here in Oz. The following was taken from Ffrr ! Mikey is a Turbo Specialist from Scotland

Mikey - you are the resident turbo expert and I know I am likely asking questions that other 3.6 owners either have heard answers to before or are too afraid to ask. I also know it's a topic that's been done to death so I'll apologies up front Thumbs Up

1. Is there anything owners can do to prevent turbo failure?
2. Are there any early signs?
3. Is prevention better than cure (given any early signs)
4. Should we replace as a pair


Any feedback and help is appreciated. Mine is approaching 80k. Has had OTT levels of TLC and is a towcar for 1800kg caravan. It had a full transmission service at 70k and has oil and filter at every 5k.

Also...and this is the biggie....how much is it to replace the necessary should the worst happen.
thanks in advance,
From all 3.6 owners Bow down


1. Drive gently until fully warm. Not just until the coolant is up to temp, it takes much longer for the engine oil to warm up. Change the oil and filter every 10k MAX. Use only good quality oil and filters. After a drive, allow to cool before switching off, to prevent heatsoak within the bearings. Consider replacing the oil feed pipe at 80k miles...

2. Not really. They just go pop

3. Prevention is always better than the cure. A few quid spent on oil + filters is always going to be cheaper than a pair of turbos...

4. Always advisable. If ones turbo has gone pop, it's likely the other is not far behind it...

Price to repair is dependant on the repairing garage. A brand new OEM turbo is best part of £1000 + VAT each, and I wouldn't use anything else. Recon turbos are very hit and miss, as calibration can only be done at the BW factory (unless things have changed recently)

Laurie

could also go to garrett (or whomever makes the turbo) and get the exact same turbo for half the dealer price.

Land Rover took the highly rated Garret actuator assembly and added their own electronics ???

Most turbo failures (not catastrophic) have been eventually diagnosed as stuck/faulty actuators. Many turbos have been replaced unnecessarily if you believe comments from the UK !

Personally I believe the EGR system is the main culprit. The soot and crap that is returned to the intake eventually goes through and gets caught in the turbos. When you switch off the engine this residual crap vapourises and sticks around the turbo shaft eventually restricting oil flow to the bearings. The airline industry reguarly cleans/washes their turbines to stop these deposits from ecoming a problem. A small deposit on a blade can cause a vibration due to the extremely high speed of the blades and if left unchecked can cause significant damage to bearings etc.

Pretty sure any EGR components are Post turbo, so not a likely suspect.